LETTER XVI.

Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.-Negro Beldames.-Quinta of Marvilla.—

Moonlight view of Lisbon.-Illuminated windows of the Palace.-The

old Marquis of Penalva.—Padre Duarte, a famous Jesuist.-Conversa-

tion between him and a conceited Physician-their ludicrous blunders.

-Toad-eaters.-Sonatas.-Portuguese minuets,

LETTER XVII.

Dog-howlings.-Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.-Breakfast

at the Marquis of Panalva's.-Magnificent and hospitable reception.—

Whispering in the shade of mysterious chambers.-The Bishop of Al-

garve.-Evening scene in the garden of Marvilla,

LETTER XVIII.

PAGE.

Excursion to Cintra.-Villa of Ramalhaô.-The Garden.-Collares.-

Pavilion designed by Pillement.—A convulsive gallop.—Cold weather

ic July,

LETTER XIX.

Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.-Palace of Cintra.-Reser-

voir of Gold and Silver Fish.-Parterre on the summit of a lofty ter-

race. Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.-The Chapel.

Barbaric profusion of Gold.-Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when

he received a supernatural warning-Rooms in preparation for the

Queen and the Infantas.—Return to Ramalhaô,

LETTER XX.

Grand gala at Court.-Festival in honour of the birthday of Guildermees-

ter.-Mad freaks of a Frenchman.-Unwelcome lights of Truth.—In-

vective against the English, .

LETTER XXI.

The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.—The Orchestra.—Rehearsal of a Coun-

cil.-Proposal to visit Mafra,

LETTER XXII.

Road to Mafra.-Distant view of the Convent-its vast fronts.-General

magnificence of the Edifice.-The Church.-The High Altar.-Eve of

the Festival of St. Augustine.-The collateral Chapels.-The Sacristy.

-The Abbot of the Convent.-The Library.-View from the Convent

roof.-Chime of Bells.-House of the Capitan Mor.-Dinner.-Ves-

pers.--Awful sound of the Organs.-The Palace.-Return to the Con-

vent.-Inquisitive Crowd.-The Gardens.-Matins.-A Procession.-

The Hall de Profundis.-Solemn Repast.-Supper at the Capitan Mor's, 55

LETTER XXIII.

PAGE.

High mass.-Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.-Leave Mafra.-
An accident.-Return to Cintra.-My saloon.-Beautiful view from it, 63

LETTER XXIV.

A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.—Amusing stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.—Cheerful funeral.—Refreshing ramble to the heights of Penha Verde,

LETTER XXV.

Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.-Visit to Mrs. Guildermeester.Toads active, and toads passive.-The old Consul and his tray of jewels, .

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LETTER XXVI.

Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.-Duke d'Alafoens.— Excursion to a rustic Fair.-Revels of the Peasantry.-Night-scene at the Marialva Villa,

LETTER XXVII.

72

Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.—Singular invitation. -Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.-Hilarity and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage,

LETTER XXVIII.

74

Explore the Cintra Mountains.-Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha.Moorish Ruins.-The Cork Convent.-The Rock of Lisbon.—Marine Scenery. Susceptible imagination of the Ancients exemplified, . 79

LETTER XXIX.

Excursion to Penha Verde.-Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Gaspar Poussin's landscapes.-The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro. The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.-Influx of visiters.-A celebrated Prior's erudition and strange anachronisms.-The Beast in the Apocalyse.-Ecolampadius.-Bevy of Palace damsels.-Fête at Marialva Villa.-The Queen and the Royal Family. A favourite dwarf Negress.-Dignified manner of the Queen. -Profound respect inspired by her presence.-Rigorous etiquette.Grand display of Fireworks.-The young Countess of Lumieres.—Affecting resemblance,

83

LETTER XXX.

Cathedral of Lisbon.-Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.-The Holy Crows.

-Party formed to visit them.—A Portuguese poet.-Comfortable esta-

blishment of the Holy Crows.-Singular tradition connected with them.

-Illuminations in honour of the Infanta's accouchement.-Public ha-

rangues.—Policarpio singing, and anecdotes of the haute noblesse,

LETTER XXXI.

Rambles in the Valley of Collares.—Elysian scenery.-Song of a young

female peasant.—Rustic hospitality.-Interview with the Prince of Bra-

zil in the plains of Cascais.-Conversation with his Royal Highness.-

Return to Ramalhaô,

LETTER XXXII.

PAGE.

Convent of Boa Morte.-Emaciated priests.-Austerity of the Order.-

Contrite personages.—A nouveau riche—his house.-Walk on the ve-

randa of the palace at Belem.-Train of attendants at dinner.-Portu-

guese gluttony.-Black dose of legendary superstition.-Terrible denun-

ciations. A dreary evening,

LETTER XXXIII.

Rehearsal of Seguidillas.-Evening scene.-Crowds of beggars.—Royal

charity misplaced.-Mendicant flattery.-Frightful countenances.—

Performance at the Salitri theatre.-Countess of Pombeiro and her

dwarf negresses.—A strange ballet.-Return to the Palace.-Supper at

the Camareira Mor's.-Filial affection.-Last interview with the Arch-

bishop.—Fatal tide of events.-Heartfelt regret on leaving Portugal,

LETTER XXXIV.

Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.-Awful music by Perez and Jomelli.

—Marialva's affecting address.—My sorrow and anxiety,

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SPAIN.

LETTER I.

Embark on the Tagus.-Aldea Gallega.-A poetical postmaster.-The

church.-Leave Aldea Gallega.-Scenery on the road.—Palace built by

John the Fifth.-Ruins at Montemor.-Reach Arroyolos,

LETTER II.

A wild tract of forest-land.-Arrival at Estremoz.-A fair.-An outrageous

sermon.-Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.—Elvas. Our reception

there.--My visiters,

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LETTER III.

Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.—A muleteer's en-

thusiasm. Badajoz.-The cathedral.—Journey resumed.—A vast plain.

-Village of Lubaon.—Withered hags.—Names and characters of our

mules.-Posada at Merida,

LETTER IV.

Arrival at Miaxada.-Monotonous singing.-Dismal country.-Truxillo.

-A rainy morning.-Resume our journey.—Immense wood of cork-

trees.—Almaraz.—Reception by the escrivano.—A terrific volume.—

Village of Laval de Moral.-Range of lofty Mountains.-Calzada,

LETTER V.

PAGE.

Sierra de los Gregos.-Mass.-Oropeza.-Talavera.-Drawling tirannas.

-Talavera de la Reyna.-Reception at Santa Olaya.-The lady of the

house and her dogs and dancers,

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LETTER VI.

Dismal plains.-Santa Cruz.-Val de Carneiro.-A most determined mu-

sical amateur.-The Alcayde Mayor.-Approach to Madrid.-Aspect

of the city. The Calle d'Alcala.-The Prado.-The Ave-Maria bell, 132

LETTER VII.

The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance-her apartment de-

scribed her passion for music-her senoras de Honor,

LETTER VIII.

The Chevalier de Roxas.-Excursion to the Palace and gardens of the

Buen Retiro.-The Turkish Ambassador and his numerous train.-

Farinelli's apartments, .

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LETTER IX.

The Museum and Academy of Arts.-Scene on the Prado.-The Portu-

guese Ambassador and his comforters.-The Theatre.-A highly popu-

lar dancer. Seguidillas in all their glory,

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LETTER X.

Visit to the Escurial.-Imposing site of that regal convent.-Reception

by the Mystagogue of the place.-Magnificence of the choir.-Charles

the Fifth's organ.-Crucifix by Cellini.-Gorgeous ceiling painted by

Lucca Giordano.-Extent and intricacy of the stupendous edifice,

140

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LETTER XI.

PAGE.

Mysterious cabinets.-Relics of Martyrs.-A feather from the Archangel Gabriel's wing.-Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.-Sepulchral cave.-River of death.-The regal sarcophagi,

LETTER XII.

144

A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco's.-Curious assemblage in his long pompous gallery.-Deplorable ditty by an Eastern dilettante.-A bolero in the most rapturous style.-Boccharini in despair.-Solecisms in dancing, 147

LETTER XIII.

Palace of Madrid.-Masterly productions of the great Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.-The King's sleeping apartment.-Musical clocks.— Feathered favourites.-Picture of the Madonna del Spasimo.-Interview with Don Gabriel and the Infanta.-Her Royal Highness's affecting recollections of home.-Head-quarters of Masserano.-Exhibition of national manners there,

151

LETTER XIV.

A German Visionary.-Remarkable conversation with him.-History of a
Ghost-seer,

LETTER XV.

156

Madame Bendicho.-Unsuccessful search on the Prado.-Kauffman, an infidel in the German style.-Mass in the chapel of the Virgin.—The Duchess of Alba's villa.-Destruction by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.-French ambassador's ball.—Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi, .

LETTER XVI.

Visit from the Turkish ambassador.-Stroll to the gardens of the Buen Retiro.-Troop of ostriches.-Madame d'Aranda.-State of Cortejo-ism. Powers of drapery.-Madame d'Aranda's toilet.-Assembly at the house of Madame Badaan.-Cortejos off duty.-Blaze of beauty.-A curious group.-A dance,

LETTER XVII.

Valley of Aranjuez.-The island garden. The palace.-Strange medley of pictures.-Oratories of the King and the Queen.-Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fresco by Mengs.-Boundless freedom of conduct in the present reign.-Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna's house. -Apathy pervading the whole Iberian peninsula,

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