tival, so dear to the natives of Portugal-so often sung by their armies in their proud days of conquest on the eve of going into battle, rose with one accord, as from one heart, from the whole of the vast assemblage. The perfect unison of so many thousand manly voices, mingled with the clearer tones of children and their mothers, filled the summer air with a volume of sound more intellectually harmonious than any which ever reached my ear from the artificial efforts of musicians and choristers. Prayer does not always ascend with the greatest fervency from beneath gilded vaults or gorgeous cupolas; it is in the free untainted desert, under Nature's own sky, that man seems to commune more deeply with his God. Impressed with that sentiment, the bare rocks, the scattered stones, the withered turf ranked higher in my estimation than all the splendours of regal magnificence; and the simple congregation assembled together in this wild and desolate place to thank the Almighty for his blessings, appeared far superior in my eyes to those pharisaic gatherings attracted to church by worldly motives and the parade of idle vanity.

So very thick was the concourse of people, and so profoundly were they affected by the late most solemn benediction, that it was no easy matter for the prelate to pass between their still kneeling groups to regain the sacristy in order to be divested of his heavy cope, the people pressing forwards to kiss his hand in such tides, and with such earnestness, that he felt fatigued and jaded. Nor was his lassitude destined to a speedy termination: he had hardly resumed his customary habiliments, when our egress from the church was absolutely impeded by a procession of young lads, dressed in a style as antique as the Moorish domination in Portugal; some carrying baskets of fruit and corn; some, on an ornamented sledge, an immense mass of wax fashioned into the shape of a gigantic taper; and some, a number of lambs bedecked with ribands and flowers.

I thought, when I saw presented on the steps before the altar these living offerings, not one of which I understood, to my heart's content, was devoted to the knife, but all destined to be reared with care and tenderness-I thought even their bleatings might reach the throne of universal beneficence. We well know how positively the inspired David declares, in one of his Psalms, that the

ear of God is open to the supplications of all his creatures, to whom, as well as to us, he has imparted the blessings of light, of sleep, and of nutriment,-" qui dat jumentis escam ipsorum et pullis corvorum invocantibus eum."

When I communicated to my reverend friend the feelings which throbbed in my own bosom, and reminded him of the fervid effusion of the prophet king, he replied: "Most entirely do I sympathise with the holy monarch. Man, in the delusion of pride, may arrogate to himself an exclusive supremacy; but fully persuaded am I, that the same principle of life which animates the wisest and brightest of mankind, pervades the boundless creation in all its forms and branches; and when that principle prompts the cry of distress or the expression of gratitude in the humblest animal, neither pass unheeded by the Divine Creator, nor are they poured forth to him in vain. These are my own interior sentiments," continued the venerable prelate. "And they are mine also," I could not repress exclaiming.

At length the procession, after depositing all its offerings, having retired into the secret courts and penetralia of the convent, the crowd began to disperse; a passage was cleared between the remaining groups of the multitude, and we regained our carriages, much to the relief of the Grand Prior, who was experiencing an almost total exhaustion.

What with the sun-rays from above, and the rolling stones below, our descent was not only broiling, but dangerous: many of our mules stumbled, and one fell down dead, half crushing the driver in its fall. The stoppage and confusion this sad accident occasioned in one of the narrowest parts of our perilous track exposed us to scorching heat for half an hour. We arrived at last at our cool, shady quarters, as brown as mummies, and as dry as cinders.

The first living objects that met us at the massive portal, surmounted by a huge marble cross, which defends the entrance of the orange orchard immediately around the mansion, were two special couriers in the royal livery, magnificently badged and booted, just arrived with a written mandate from the Prince, summoning the two Priors to an audience to-morrow at the Palace of Queluz, precisely at three. They delivered me also a very kind

letter of invitation from the Marquis of Anjeja (then lord in waiting) to dine with him at the same hour.

Really," said our most amiable host, a little ruffled by this peremptory command, "we did not expect a summons to communicate observations upon Alcobaça so soon,-on our way home, too, God bless us! without being allowed time to shake off the dust from our garments, and make ourselves decent and comfortable. But an uncontrollable love of gossip is inherent in the character of royalty, and as indelible: we have nothing to do but to obey."

So saying, and so sighing, with many an ejaculation from the inmost soul of laziness, both Priors wrote answers to the royal mandate: I did the same to the Marquis of Anjeja, and the couriers departed.

After every comfort and ablution our pleasant retired chambers could afford, we partook of a delicious repast, and of all the blandishments which delicate dishes and iced sherbets could bestow on the willing palate. To these delights succeeded, on the part of the Lord Priors at least, a most comfortable nap, and then a stroll in the long-bowered alleys of the quinta; and then the evening perfume of orange-flowers and jasmine, and the evening song of birds,—music, also, from Franchi, accompanied on the guitar by two novices, who played from their heart and soul most ravishingly, and then a dance of true oriental fervour, performed by a chosen band of the morisco-dressed processionists, who had been drawn down, not from heaven, like the Angel to St. Cecilia, but from the convent on the hill; where, I have little doubt, their freaks and gambols were sadly missed, and the temporary deprivation of such amusing frolics heartily regretted.

TWELFTH DAY.

14th June.

THE morning was the very essence of summer-and summer in Portugal, consequently tremenduously hot. Such heat was oppressive enough, but the Grand Prior thought early rising still more abominable, and notwithstanding the Prior of St. Vincent's

exhortations to set forth whilst any degree of coolness lingered in the atmosphere, there was no persuading him to move before halfpast eight.

Being myself pretty well seasoned to meridian excursions, and bronzed all over like a native Portuguese, I set the sun at defiance, mounted my Arabian, and steering my course as directly as was possible without the aid of a compass, traversed the wide expanse of country between Cadafaiz and Queluz;—and a sad dreary expanse it was, exhibiting only now and then a straggling flock, looking pretty and pastoral—a neglected quinta of orangetrees with its decaying garden-house, the abode of crime or innocence, whichever you like best to fancy-or a half-ruined windmill, with its tattered vans, revolving lackadaisically in the languid and feeble breeze.

Exactly at the hour named, I arrived, not a little ennuied and wearied, at the palace of Queluz. The chaises belonging to the Priors of Aviz and St. Vincent's were waiting before the royal entrance, for both prelates were still closeted with the Prince Regent. Blessing Heaven that I had nothing to do with the business, whatever it might be, that was in agitation, I gladly took refuge from the intolerable sunshine in the apartments allotted to the lord in waiting;-shabby enough they were, bare as many an English country church, and not much less dingy.

The beings who were wandering about this limbo, or intermediate state, belonged chiefly to that species of living furniture which encumber royal palaces-walking chairs, animated screens, commodes and conveniences, to be used by sovereigns in any manner they like best; men who had little to feed on besides hope, and whose rueful physiognomies showed plainly enough the wasting effects of that empty diet,-weather-beaten equerries, superannuated véadors,* and wizened pages. The whole party were yawning over dusty card-tables.

Making them many low bows, which were returned with equal courtesy, I passed forward into an interior apartment, where the Marquis of Anjeja and his son the Conde de Villaverde were waiting for me, and immediately dinner was served up. Our re

*A Véador is something less than a Camarista, or chamberlain, and something more than a groom of the bedchamber.

past was not particularly distinguished by good cheer or lively

conversation.

As soon as it was over, and the motley tribe of attendants who had crowded tumultuously round our table sent about their no business at all, the Marquis observed to me in a very subdued and rather melancholy tone, that the Prince had been greatly disturbed of late by strange apprehensions and stranger dreams; that his temper was much ruffled, and that something, he could not tell what, bore heavily on his mind. He would have entered, I believe, into further details of still greater importance, had not a page called him away to the royal presence.

“I shall return in half an hour," said he, "and finish what I had to say to you." This half hour exceeded three quarters, and two quarters added to that; but they passed rapidly, for both the young Conde and myself, oppressed by a warm atmosphere, and lulled by the drone of humble-bees, and the monotonous buzzing of courtiers and lacqueys, in the adjoining apartments, had fallen fast asleep.

When I awoke from this happy state of forgetfulness, one of my servants, who had followed me from Cadafaiz with a change of dress, took me into a room which a principal attendant of the palace had given up to him, and out of which I issued completely renovated, and met the Marquis hastily bearing to me the interesting intelligence, that in the course of the evening, or as soon after nightfall as possible, the Prince Regent would give me an audience. "In the intervening time," he added, "if you wish to see the curious birds and flowers last sent from the Brazils, the gardens, though accessible of late to very few persons, shall be open to you. Villaverde would most gladly accompany you, but even he has not been in the habit of straying about them for some time past. As to myself, the Prince has a long series of deputations and petitions to receive, and it is my duty to remain near his royal person on these occasions; so pardon my not offering myself as your guide. At the extremity of the avenue you see from these windows stands a pavilion well worthy your attention, and I rather wish you might principally employ it in examining the paintings and china, till the moment arrives when the Prince will be at leisure to receive you.