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CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY.
LETTER I.
Passage to Ostend.-The Capuchin church.-Ghent.-
Quiet and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.-
Antwerp.-The Place de Meir.-Silence and solitude of
the town, contrasted with the tumult and uproar of Lon-
don.
Page 3
LETTER II.
Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.-Monsieur
Van Lencren's collection.-The Canon Knyff's house and
gallery of paintings.-The Canon himself. His domestic
felicity. Revisit the cathedral.-Grand service in honour of
Saint John the Baptist.-Mynheer Van den Bosch, the or-
ganist's astonishing flashes of execution.-Evening service
in the cathedral.-Magical effect of the music of Jomelli.
-Blighted avenues.-Slow travelling.-Enter the United
Provinces.-Level scenery.-Chinese prospects. -Reach
Meerdyke.-Arrival at the Hague.
-
14
LETTER III.
The Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings.-Tempta-
tion of St. Anthony, by Breughel.-Exquisite pictures by
Berghem and Wouvermans.-Mean garrets stored with ines-
timable productions of the Indies.-Enamelled flasks of
oriental essences.-Vision of the wardrobe of Hecuba.-
Disenchantment.-Cabinet of natural history.-A day dream.
-A delicious morsel. Dinner at Sir Joseph Yorke's.-
Two honourable boobies.-The Great Wood.-Parterres
of the Greffier Fagel.-Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.
-Fishy locality of Dutch banquetting rooms.- Derivation
of the inhabitants of Holland. - Origin and use of enormous
galligaskins. Escape from damp alleys and lazy waters. 24
--
LETTER IV.
Leave the Hague.- Leyden.-- Wood near Haerlem.-
Waddling fishermen. Enter the town.-The great fair.-
Riot and uproar.-Confusion of tongues.-Mine hostess. 32
LETTER V.
Amsterdam.-The road to Utrecht.-Country-houses and
gardens. Neat enclosures. Comfortable parties. - Ladies
and Lapdogs. Arrival at Utrecht. Moravian establish-
ment. The woods. Shops. Celestial love. - Musical
Sempstresses.-Return to Utrecht.
LETTER VI.
35
Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.-Glimpse of a dingy grove.-
Melancholy saunterers. - Dusseldorf Gallery. Nocturnal
depredators. Arrival at Cologne.- Shrine of the Three
- —
Wise Sovereigns.-Peregrinations of their beatified bones.
Road to Bonn.-Delights of Catholicism. Azure moun-
tains. Visionary palaces.
39
LETTER VII.
Borders of the Rhine.-Richly picturesque road from Bonn
to Andernach. Scheme for a floating village. - Coblentz.
-A winding valley. The river Lahn.- Ems.-The pla
net.- A supposed Apparition. A little sequestered Para-
dise.
47
LETTER VIII.
Inveterate Idlers.-The planet Orloff and his satellites.
-A Storm.-Scared women.—A dreary Forest. Village
of Wiesbaden. - Manheim. - Ulm. - The Danube — unli-
mited plains on its margin.-Augsburg.-Sketch of the
Town.-Pomposities of the Town House.
LETTER IX.
53
Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria. Grand Fair at
Munich. The Elector's country palace.-Court Ladies.-
Fountains. Costume.-Garden and tea-room.-Hoydening
festivities there.-The Palace and Chapel.-Gorgeous riches
of the latter. - St. Peter's thumb. The Elector's col-
lection of pictures. - The Churches. - Hubbub and con-
fusion of the Fair.-Wild tract of country.-Village of Wol-
frathshausen. -Perpetual forests. A Tempest. - A night
at a cottage.
LETTER X.
63
Mittenwald. Mountain chapels. Saint Anna's young
and fair worshippers.- Road to Inspruck. Maximilian's
tomb.- Vast range of prospects. A mountain torrent.
Schönberg.
Steinach.-Its torrent and gloomy strait.-Achievements
of Industry. A sleepy Region. Beautiful country round
Brixen. .
84
ITALY.
Bolsano. Indications of approaching Italy. - Fire-flies.
Appearance of the Peasantry.-A forest Lake. Arrive
at Borgo di Volsugano.- Prospect of Hills in the Venetian
State. Gorgeous Flies. - Fortress of Covalo. - Leave the
country of crags and precipices and enter the territory
of the Bassanese.-Groves of olives and vines.-Classic ap-
Pachierotti, the
pearance of Bassano. Happy groups.
Villa of Mosolente.-The route to Venice.-First view
of that city. Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.
Morning scene on the grand canal.— Church of Santa
Maria della Salute.-Interesting group of stately buildings.
-Convent of St. Giorgio Maggiore.-The Redentore.-
Island of the Carthusians.
97
Church of St. Mark. The Piazza. - Magnificent festi-
vals formerly celebrated there.-Stately architecture of San-
sovino. The Campanile.-The Loggetta.- The Ducal Pa-
lace. Colossal Statues. - Giants' Stairs.- Fit of enthu-
siasm.Evening-scene in the great Square. - Venetian
intrigue. Confusion of languages. -Madame de Rosenberg.
- Character of the Venetians.
Excessive heat. The Devil and Senegal. A dreary
shore.—Scene of the Doge's nuptials with the sea.-Return
to the Place of St. Mark.-Swarm of Lawyers.-Receptacles
for anonymous accusations.-The Council of Ten. - Ter-
rible punishments of its victims.-Statue of Neptune.-
Fatal Waters.-Bridge of Sighs.-The Fondamenti Nuovi.—
Conservatory of the Mendicanti.-An Oratorio.—Profound
attention of the Audience.
123
M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.-Drawings
of ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo pa-
laces. Titian's master-piece in the church of San Gio-
vanni e Paolo.-The distant Euganean hills.
132
Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.-The once popu-
lous city of Altina.-An excursion.-Effects of our music
on the inhabitants of the Islands.-Solitary fields infested
by serpents. Remains of ancient sculpture.-Antique and
fantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Torcello.-San Lo-
renzo's chair.-Dine in a Convent.-The Nuns.-Oratorio
of Sisera.-Remarks on the music.-Singing of the Mar-
chetti. A female orchestra.
137
Coast of Fusina.-The Brenta.- A Village of Palaces.
-Fiesso. Exquisite singing of the Galuzzi.
Cornaro.-Scenes of enchantment and fascination.
Marietta
145
Reveries.-Walls of Padua.-Confused Pile dedicated to
Saint Anthony. Devotion at his Shrine. - Penitential