4

2

3

12th June. Being Trinity-Sunday, the Dean of Peterborough1 preached; after which, there was an ordination of two divines, Durel and Brevint 3 (the one was afterwards Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring the weight and dignity of their function, especially now in a time of the poor Church of England's affliction. He magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object, viz. the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God; producing many human instances of the transitoriness and vanity of all other dignities; that of all the triumphs the Roman conquerors made, none was comparable to that of our Blessed Saviour's, when he led captivity captive, and gave gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by which his faithful and painful ministers triumphed over Satan as oft as they reduced a sinner from the error of his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the altar, the Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so were made both Deacons and Priests at the same time, in regard to the necessity of the times, there being so few

son Philip (subsequently second Earl), also in succession bore the title of Lord Stanhope.

1 [Dr. John Cosin, 1594-1672, afterwards Bishop of Durham, and reputed "one of the most popish of Anglican divines." He had been deprived of his benefices in 1640 by the Long Parliament, had come to France in 1643, and was at this date Chaplain to the Anglican royalists at Paris.]

2 [John Durel, 1625-83. He had assisted in the royalist defence of Jersey in 1647. He was not made Dean of Windsor until 1677.]

3 [Daniel Brevint or Brevin, 1616-95. He received a stall in Durham Cathedral in 1660, and became Dean and Prebendary of Lincoln, 1682.]

4 [Thomas Sydserff, 1581-1663, who was made Bishop of Orkney at the Restoration.]

Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the Communion. This was all performed in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, at Paris.

13th June. I sate to the famous sculptor,' Nanteuil, who was afterwards made a knight by the French King for his art. He engraved my picture in copper. At a future time, he presented me with my own picture, done all with his pen ; an extraordinary curiosity.

2

21st. I went to see the Samaritan, or Pump, at the end of the Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising no great matter, is, besides the machine, furnished with innumerable rarities both of art and nature; especially the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, growing out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of crystal, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals and marcasites, with two great conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crowns at Amsterdam. He showed us many landscapes and prospects, very rarely painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon; divers antiquities and rilievos of Rome; above all, that of the inside of the Amphitheatre of Titus, incomparably drawn by Monsieur St. Clere himself: two boys and three skeletons, moulded by Fiamingo; a book of statues with the pen made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which one may discover many errors in the taille-douce of Perrier, who has added divers conceits of his own

5

1 [I.e. engraver.]

4

2 Robert Nanteuil, 1630-98. He both drew and engraved. His portrait of Evelyn is known to connoisseurs as the "petit My Lord." He also drew portraits of Mrs. Evelyn and Sir R. Browne, which are still at Wotton House.

3 [See ante, vol. i. p. 69.]

4 This was the name of the owner.

5 [Francis Perrier or Périer ("le Bourguignon "), 1590-1650,

1

that are not in the originals. He has likewise an infinite collection of taille-douces, richly bound in morocco. He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have entertained a prince, with pictures of the greatest masters, especially a Venus of Pierino del Vaga; the putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of porcelain, and many designed by Raphael; some paintings of Poussin, and Fioravanti; antiques in brass; the lookingglass and stands rarely carved. In a word, all was great, choice and magnificent, and not to be passed by as I had often done, without the least suspicion that there were such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future visit, he showed a new grotto and a bathing-place, hewn through the battlements of the arches of Pont Neuf, into a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so that the coaches and horses thundered over our heads.

27th June. I made my will, and taking leave of my wife and other friends, took horse for England, paying the messager eight pistoles for me and my servant to Calais, setting out with seventeen in company well-armed, some Portuguese, Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains and officers. We came the first night to Beaumont; next day, to Beauvais, and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached Abbeville; next, dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company on foot (being now within the inroads of the parties which dangerously infest this day's journey from St. Omer and the frontiers), which we drew very near to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were ordered and led by a captain of our train; but, as we were on the speed, they called out, and proved to be Scotchmen, newly

a French painter and engraver, who, c. 1635, reproduced the principal statues and bas-reliefs at Rome.]

1 [See ante, vol. i. p. 267.]

raised and landed, and few among them armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne. The next day, we marched in good order, the passage being now exceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it made the skin peel off.

I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent ; and, about three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat; hearing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman would have us to the Mayor to be searched, but the gentleman being in bed, we were dismissed.

Next day being Sunday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that afternoon our trunks were visited.

The next morning, by four, we set out for Canterbury, where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott,' whom that very day twelve months before I met at sea going for France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the next morning.

5th July. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois', where was a gentlewoman called Everard, who was a very great chemist.

Sunday 7th. In the afternoon, having a mind to see what was doing among the rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went thither, and found one at exercise in the chapel, after their way; thence, to St. James's, where another was preaching in the court abroad.

1

[See ante, p. 15.]

2

[See ante, p. 9.]

17th July. I went to London to obtain a pass,1 intending but a short stay in England.

1

25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and my sister Glanville; the country was now much molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen's horses for the service of the State, as then called.

4th August. I heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties.2

3

6th. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me an excellent copy of Titian.

12th. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the soldiers, and having only an antiquated pass, with some fortunate dexterity I got clear of them, though not without extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one one with success, it being so difficult to procure one of the rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as authentic as the hand and seal of

"These

1 See also ante, p. 13. A copy of it is subjoined: are to will and require you to permitt and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq, to transport himselfe, two servants, and other necessaryes, unto any port of France, without any your letts or molestations, of which you are not to fayle, and for which this shall be your sufficient warrant. Given at the Councell of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650.

"Signed in the Name and by Order of the Councelle of State, appoynted by authority of Parliament,

Jo. BRADSHAWE, P'sid't.

"To all Custom", Comptrole", and Searchers, and

all other Officers of y Ports or Customes."

Under the signature Evelyn has added in his own writing: "The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] M[emory]." Its endorsement, also in his writing, is, "The Passe from the Counsell of State 1650."

2 [See post, under 14th March, 1652.]

3 [See ante, p. 5.]