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VALLEY OF THE THAMES.

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mencement of this chapter; and it varies in breadth from fifteen to thirty miles, until, at about thirty miles up, it suddenly contracts; a tongue of land runs out, dividing it into two parts: the northern and most insignificant branch receives the waters of the river Piaka; and the lower, or southern one, those of the boasted river Thames. We regained Waihoa just in time to secure a passage in a vessel bound to the Bay of Islands, whence I shortly after shipped for Sydney, not over delighted with what I had seen of this "Granary of the Southern Hemisphere."

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CHAP. VI.

Harbour of Waikato.--Directions for taking the Bar.-Canoe Excursion.-Excitement of the Natives.-Anecdotes.-Proceedings regarding Adultery.-A Mission for Port Nicholson. - Get under weigh. — A Night Descent into the Forecastle. - A Meeting with the Chief. Seizure of the Vessel averted. -Leave the Harbour.-Mount Egmont. Cook's Straits.

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North Part of the Middle Island.-Port Nicholson. - The River "Hut."-Erroneous Representations and Dealings of Land-sharks. Waitimatta or Auckland.

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- A Stroll to Ma

nukao.-Lady Franklin.-Return to Sydney.-Remarks

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December 26th.—I AGAIN started for New Zealand on a general coasting voyage. We endeavoured to make the harbour of Waikato on the west coast direct; but a series of contrary winds drove us so far to the northward, that we came between the North Head and the Three Kings, and so worked down the coast, opening all the harbours and bays, till, after a tedious, procrastinated passage, we reached the wished for port. The coast, as we beat our way, presented every where the same sterile, savage appearance: hill rising abruptly above hill; and bold

HARBOUR OF WAIKATO.

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repulsive cliffs, relieved at intervals by sandy wastes. The harbour of Waikato cannot be approached with a westerly wind, as it is a bar-harbour, with only two fathoms of water on it at low ebb; and the entrance to the bar is rendered difficult and hazardous by two sandspits, running in contrary directions, causing them to overlap, the one tending northerly, the other to the southward. From a long continuance of south-easterly winds, the bar was almost smooth when we sighted it; a leading wind also favoured us; but as we were all strangers to the place, and without charts, the captain took the precaution to sound the passage in the boat before taking it with the vessel. The report of the sounding party, being favourable, when the southern extremity of the north sandspit bore by compass E.N.E., and the southern extremity of the south sandspit, E. half N., we ran in E. by N. half N., and were carried over the bar in safety. We encountered a heavy swell, which, fortunately, did not break. Owing to mismanagement, our whale-boat, towing astern, got capsized, and we lost a set of oars; but this would not have happened if she had been properly hauled up. I was disappointed in the harbour: it is safe enough after you have passed the bar, but it is of no extent, and not fit for vessels over 200 tons burthen. The South Head is a frowning, black-looking mass, called "Woody Head ;" it is covered with a dense growth of dwarf trees: the North Head is a sandhill, being the termination of a dreary waste extending for several miles, with scarcely the shadow of vegetation to be seen; and

when the wind prevails, and blows hard from the southward, the air is filled with showers of drift sand, exceedingly unpleasant both to sight and respiration. No sooner had we come to an anchor, than the deck became crowded with natives, who created the clamour and confusion of Babel. As usual, a white man, demi-uncivilised, was residing in the pah; and not far distant, two of the London missionaries, with their families, had taken up their abodes. The white man came off to us and proffered his services; and as I was desirous of engaging four boys to convey me up the river, I requested him to negotiate for them. Plenty were found willing to go, but demanded payment beforehand, which I would not give, and as they persisted, I bundled them ashore. I wanted to make all the haste possible; and knew that by prepayment they would take their own time. I would recommend to every one travelling in New Zealand, if they can manage it, to withhold compensation till services are performed, and proportion the reward according to the merit of the parties. The natives have no notion of the value of time. About seven

o'clock in the evening, four of a party whom I had dismissed came off in a light, swift-pulling canoe, stating their readiness to go with me; but that if I decided on going, I must start at once, while the tide served. I imagined that there was some concerted plan in this, and that it was their intention to rob me; but not liking to mention my suspicions, I privately armed myself, and stepped into the canoe. The tide only affects the river for about seven miles, and you then have to contend against the force of

CANOE EXCURSION.

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the current, which sets towards the ocean at about the rate of four knots. My "boys"— (it is customary, but I don't know why, to call all New Zealanders travelling with you boys or lads, though their being fathers may have fully justified their claims to manhood. I suppose it is upon the same principle that the French continue to call grey-headed waiters "garçons," or that we apply to sexagenarian riders the title of "post-boys")- my "boys" behaved very civilly, and continued pulling the greater part of the night. Towards morning, as they complained of hunger and fatigue, at the same time expressed their willingness to persevere in their exertions if I wished it, I consented to their securing the canoe, and reposing on the banks of the river for a few hours: I gave the poor fellows some of the salt beef I had with me, and their curiosity respecting it was quite ludicrous: they turned it over, examined it in all directions, smelt it, and at length appealing to me, made use of the monosyllable "Cow?" The missionary residents had some cattle at their stations, which, I suppose, gave them the idea. The country, generally, was much as I had left it, nor did I see any great improvement in my friend's farm. His natives had all quitted him, and he now found it a difficult task to procure workmen from amongst them, although for many years they had looked up to him as something more than mortal. The invasion of their land by so many European immigrants had created a painful sort of consternation amongst the natives, and many had drawn towards the European quarters to ascertain their manoeuvres.

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