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an actress. — And now see a man, tall, dark, with an air in which fierceness and dignity intermingle! He walks alone: sometimes he shuts his eyes, sometimes he folds his arms; a variety of occasions on which he lost, a variety of chances by which he might have gained, give every now and then a convulsive twitch to his overhanging eyebrow--he meets a red-nosed gentleman, of sleek and comely aspect, and who steps upon his toes;-the two walk arm-in-arm together towards the Rue de Richelieu...
Pass on to the Rue Montmartre, and the Boulevard takes a different aspect. The activity of business mixes itself with the activity of idleness; here are the large magazines of the Parisian Medici; the crowd, less elegant, has the air of being more employed. Pass on againcommerce assumes a quieter appearance; its luxurious companions have disappeared; there are no chairs, for there is no leisure ; but go a little further, and the gaieties recommence; the gaieties, this time, not of the “ nobilace,” but of the “populace”—not of the aristocracy of the • Chaussée d'Antin,'but of the aristocracy of the • Temple.' Grouped round yonder stage, much resembling the antique theatre of Thespis, you see the mob of modern Greece, enchanted with the
pleasures of Dubureaux :* and here you may put into the lottery for a cake, and here you may have your destiny told for a sou;' and the great men-the great men of France—the Marshals and Generals of the empire, the distinguished orators of the Restoration, the literary celebrities of the day-Ney, Foy, Victor Hugo—are there before you, as large a great deal larger, indeed-than life; for the multitude are rarely satisfied with things just as they are; they like to see their heroes fresh, fat, and magnificently dressed; and all this is easily accomplished when their heroes are
Where these great men at present exhibit themselves, there used formerly to be tumblers; but the people's amusements have changed, though the people must still be amused.
And at last we have come to the silent and tranquil Boulevard of the agitated and turbulent Beaumarchais; and behind are the tall palaces of dark-red brick, and the low and gloomy arcades of the Place Royale, where you find the old-fashioned magistrate, the oldfashioned merchant, the retired respectability of
* The famous street-actor, whose ambulatory stage has been celebrated by Mons'. Janin.
Paris: and yonder! before us—is the memorable spot, witness of the first excesses and the first triumphs of the Revolution—but the spectres of its old time are vanished, and the eye which rests upon the statue of yonder gigantic and sagacious animal,* tries to legitimatize the monument,—by considering it as a type of the great people who raised the barricades in July 1830, and overthrew the Bastille in July 1789.
And now, my dear reader, in parading you thus systematically from the Madeleine to the *Temple,'I have given you the best introduction, I believe, to Paris and its population. If you want to know the people of Paris, you must seek them abroad. They love the sun, and the air, and the sauntering stroll; they love, if it be only for a moment, to glide across the broad street-amidst the turnings and windings of which, society changes its colours at every instant, like the shifting forms of a kaleidoscope : the idle loiter there for amusement, the busy steal there for distraction. Besides, it is not only the present I have been showing you: I do not know where you may better study the past. What has not even our own generation looked on from yonder windows ? Robespierre, Barras,
* The elephant, which is on the site of the old Bastille.
Bonaparte, the Republic, the Directory, the Empire-have all passed in triumph and defeat before them.
-"By twelve o'clock at noon the Boulevards were crowded with people of every class, all appearing in high spirits; the number of white cockades increased; many of them wore only bits of white handkerchiefs, bits of white paper, “ Vivent nos Libérateurs !” “ Vivent les Bourbons!” - I put down the book I was reading the other morning (“Events at Paris in 1814,") at this passage, and went out-to see Louis Philippe reviewing the very men who had driven these same Bourbons into exile. The Boulevards now, too, were crowded with people of all classes, appearing in high spirits; and, looking down the street, I saw the straight red feather and the white belt mingling with the scarf, and the shawl, and the plain cap, and the splendid bonnet. The new King was on horseback, smiling graciously on his faithful people; and behind him rode the Prince, on whose head repose the future destinies of France-as gay, as handsome, as full of hope, as the Comte d'Artois in the reign of Louis XV.
Every thing in Paris that is remarkable, remarkable
for its gaiety-Evening in the Palais Royal in 1830 -The Jubilee of the Revolution—The King of the middle classes had his palace supported by shops Fête Napolitaine-Vicissitudes of history - Description of the Palais Royal, and changes_Gambling houses; description from M. Balzac—Must civilization be accompanied by its curses ?
THERE are countries in which you may yet find a few of those solemn temples which defy the destruction of time, and the imitation of map. In Italy, in Greece, and in Asia, there are shrines at which your footsteps too fondly linger: in the silence of the great place of St. Mark, in the solitudes that surround the Coliseum, you feel the mystery of the spot, and sigh for the pleasant days of Venice--for the virtue and the glory of the antique Rome.' It is not the
magnificence of these scenes: it is their melancholy -the melancholy which that magnificence has