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that advances and instructs, and degrades and disgraces the age in which we live-are found side by side together. Must civilization be accompanied by its curses? . . . The electricity which creates the thunder, guides us to the pole, and the same terrible energy which disturbs the world, has carried knowledge and religion over its deep and mysterious ways.
THE QUAIS AND THE TUILERIES.
Quais, irregularity-Diversity-Paris on a fine day a picture of modern civilization-Business, crowddifferent from the Quays of the Thames-Powdermill replaced by the Pantheon-Tuileries-Alterations-The arts should be as inviolable as the laws-Tuileries last refuge of the aristocracyThe population of the Tuileries-Remarkable as the birth of a new age- Description of that age-The Tuileries still represent it.
THE four great features in the physiognomy of Paris, are the Boulevards, the Palais Royal, the Tuileries, and the Quais. The Quais, though animated differently, are perhaps more animated than the Boulevards. Here again, too, you see the charm of variety and irregularity; what so irregular as those islands jutting out into the Seine, and mingling their low and dirty hovels with the splendid palaces of the Tuileries and the Louvre ?-what so irregular as that variety of roofs, which, standing on any eminence, you
behold rising everywhere around you, one above the other, roofs of all shapes, mansions and domes of all sizes?-what so diversified as that mixture of boats and carriages,—of pavement and of water,-of masts and men,-of washerwomen and soldiers, of stalls, temples, manufactories and mausoleums? Paris, on a fine day, seen from one of the bridges, is a picture of modern civilization: brilliant, confused, gay, various; but the picture (and such is the colouring of our times) is a picture in water colours; the shades, bright, are not deep: there is not the darkness and the force which we admire in the paintings of Rembrandt and Murillo: there is not the richness that a southern sun spreads around you; but here, as elsewhere, there is a gaiety that veils the northern nature of the clime.
As the population of the Boulevards is the lounging population of Paris, the population of the Quais is rife with Parisian business and activity as the one breathes a certain ease, the other moves under the spirit of agitation; everybody here has something to do, something to sell, something to buy, somewhere to go; and behind this living wave, ebbing and flowing,this moving mass of white caps, dark bonnets, red feathers, tattered hats, and gleaming
casques-rises darkly the old city, and the stately Faubourg St. Germain. And there is Ste. Geneviève! and there is Notre Dame! the tomb of Voltaire and the monument of de Sullyuniting the present with the past, the twelfth century with the eighteenth,-the power of literature with the dominion of the church. One finds a happiness and a glow about the squalid river of the Seine which all our wealth and grandeur have not bestowed upon the magnificent Thames. The broad quays which ennoble the aspect of this miserable stream betray its poverty, its poverty as the canal of commerce,
as the carrier and ministrant of that wealth which creates the magazine and fills the warehouse. But there is another wealth, another greatness; that greatness which arises from the cultivation of the arts, from the knowledge and the love of the beautiful; a greatness which the traveller loves and which the statesman should cherish; a greatness which is the greatness of France, and before which you bow as you see the Louvre on the site of the coal-wharf, and find the powder-mill replaced by the Pantheon.
And now look to the palace, which, according to the fable of the Dervise, has been of late years a caravanserai for so many travellers! to the palace where kings and water-carriers have
so lately revelled !* A short time since, and Paris was alarmed by a long line of scaffolding, behind which a conspiracy was supposed planned
* "La chambre à coucher du roi était pleine de porteurs d'eau, qui se faisaient rebondir en riant sur le matelas de son lit.”—Chron. de la Révolution de Juillet 1830.
Francis the first bought the Tuileries, then a house between court and garden, and in the neighbourhood of a spot where tiles (" tuiles") were manufactured for his mother; Catherine de Medicis purchased the buildings and the ground in the vicinity, and laid the foundations of a new edifice, which, if the original plans of Bullan and De Lorme had been adopted, would have been even larger than the present one. But the Pa. vilion in the middle and the light buildings on each side of it were all which formed at that time, and for many years afterwards, the Château of the Tuileries. It was not till the reign of Louis XIV. that the Tuileries were completed by Leveau. Before this time the garden was separated from the palace by a street called 'Rue des Tuileries.' This garden at that time contained a menagerie, an orangery, and a preserve of game for the royal'chasse.' It was defended by a high wall, a moat, and a bastion. Le Nôtre changed all this, surrounding the garden with two terraces planted with trees, that one by the Seine, and that one by the Rue de Rivoli, called from the Old Convent Terrace des Feuillans.' Here ran the gardens of the Feuillans' and the Capucins,' and a long court which led to the old 'manèges' of the Tuileries. On this royal and religious spot was erected the edifice which saw the destruction