[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]


French National Burying Ground—Among the Great Dead-

The Shrine of Disappointed Love—The Story of Abelard

and Heloise—“English Spoken Here” “ American

Drinks Compounded Here "--Imperial Honours to an

American-The Over-estimated Grisette-Departure from

Paris--A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness

of American Women..



Versailles—Paradise Regained—A Wonderful Park—Paradise

Lost-Napoleonic Strategy



War-The American Forces Victorious- “ Home Again

Italy in Sight—The "City of Palaces”-Beauty of the

Genoese Women-The “ Stub-Hunters ”—Among the

Palaces—Gifted Guide-Church Magnificence—“Women

not Admitted ”—How the Genoese Live-Massive Archi-

tecture-A Scrap of Ancient History-Graves for 60,000 89


Flying Through Italy—Marengo-First Glimpse of the

Famous Cathedral—Description of some of its Wonders-

A Horror Carved in Stone-An Unpleasant Adventure-

A Good Man-A Sermon from the Tomb—Tons of Gold

and Silver-Some More Holy Relics—Solomon's Temple




66 Do You Wis zo Haut can be?”—La Scala-Petrarch and

Laura--Lucrezia Borgia-Ingenious Frescoes-Ancient

Roman Amphitheatre—A Clever Delusion-Distressing

Billiards—The Chief Charm of European Life-An Italian

Bath —Wanted! Soap — Crippled French — Mutilated

English - The Most Celebrated Painting in the World-

Amateur Raptures-Uninspired Critics Anecdote-A

Wonderful Echo-A Kiss for a Franc



Rural Italy by Rail-Fumigated According to Law—The

Sorrowing Englishman-Night by the Lake of Como~

The Famous Lake-Its Scenery—Como compared with

Tahoe-Meeting a Shipmate



The Pretty Lago di Lecco-A Carriage Drive in the Country

-Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman-A Sleepy Land

-Bloody Shrines—The Heart and Home of Priestcraft,

A Thrilling Mediæval Romance—The Birthplace of

Harlequin-Approaching Venice........


[ocr errors]
[ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]

FOR months the great pleasure Excursion to Europe and the Holy Land was chatted about in the newspapers every where in America, and discussed at countless firesides. It was a novelty in the way of Excursions—its like had not been thought of before, and it compelled that interest which attractive novelties always command. It was to be a pic-nic on a gigantic scale. The participants in it, instead of freighting an ungainly steam ferry-boat with youth and beauty and pies and doughnuts, and paddling up some obscure creek to disembark upon a grassy lawn and wear them. selves out with a long summer day's laborious frollicking-under the impression that it was fun, were to sail away in a great steamship with flags flying and cannon pealing, and take a royal holiday beyond the broad ocean, in many a strange clime and in many a land renowned in history! They were to sail for months over the breezy Atlantic and the sunny Mediterranean; they were to scamper about the decks by day, filling the ship with shouts and laughter-or read novels and poetry in the shade of the smoke stacks, or watch for the jelly-fish and the nautilus, over the side, and the shark, the whale, and other strange monsters of the deep ; and at night they were to dance in the open air, on the upper deck, in the midst of a ball room that stretched from horizon to horizon, and was domed by the bending heavens and lighted by no meaner lamps than the stars and the magnificent moondance, and promenade, and smoke, and sing, and make love, and search the skies for constellations that never associate with the

Big Dipper" they were so tired of : and they were to see the ships of twenty navies--the customs and costumes of twenty curious peoples-the great cities of half a world--they were to hob-nob with nobility and hold friendly converse with kings and princes, Grand Moguls, and the anointed lords of mighty empires !

It was a brave conception; it was the offspring of a most ingenious brain. It was well advertised, but it hardly needed it : the bold originality, the extraordinary character, the seductive nature, and the vastness of the enterprise provoked comment every where and advertised it in every household in the land. Who





could read the programme of the excursion without longing to make one of the party? I will insert it here. It is almost as good as a map. As a text for this book, nothing could be better:



“ BROOKLYN, February 1st, 1864. “ The undersigned will make an excursion as above during the coming season, and begs to submit to you the following programme :

“A first-class steamer, to be under his own command, and capable of accommodating at least one hundred and fifty cabin passengers, will be selected, in which will be taken a select company, numbering not more than three-fourths of the ship's capacity. There is good reason to believe that this company can be easily made up in this immediate vicinity, of mutual friends and acquaintances.

" The steamer will be provided with every necessary comfort, including library and musical instruments.

“An experienced physician will be on board.

“Leaving New York about June 1st, a middle and pleasant route will be taken across the Atlantic, and passing through the group of Azores, St. Michael will be reached in about ten days. A day or two will be spent here, enjoying the fruit and wild scenery of these islands, and the voyage continued, and Gibraltar reached in three or four days.

A day or two will be spent here in looking over the wonderful subterraneous fortifications, permission to visit these galleries being readily obtained.

“ From Gibraltar, running along the coasts of Spain and France, Marseilles will be reached in three days. Here ample time will be given not only to look over the city, which was founded six hundred years before the Christian era, and its artificial port, the finest of the kind in the Mediterranean, but to visit Paris during the Great Exhibition; and the beautiful city of Lyons, lying intermediate, from the heights of which on a clear day Mont Blanc and the Alps can be distinctly seen. Passengers who may wish to extend the time at Paris can do so, and passing down through Switzerland, rejoin the steamer at Genoa.

“From Marseilles to Genoa is a run of one night. The excursionists will have an opportunity to look over this, the magnifi. cent city of palaces,' and visit the birth-place of Columbus, twelve miles off, over a beautiful road built by Napoleon I. From this point, excursions may be made to Milan, Lakes Como and Maggiore, or to Milan, Verona (famous for its extraordinary fortifications), Padua, and Venice. Or, if passengers desire to visit Parma (famous for Correggio's frescoes), and Bologna, they can by rail go on to Florence, and rejoin the steamer at Leghorn, thus


spending about three weeks amid the cities most famous for art in Italy.

“ From Genoa the run to Leghorn will be made along the coast in one night, and time appropriated to this point in which to visit Florence, its palaces and galleries ; Pisa, its Cathedral and • Leaning Tower,' and Lucca and its baths, and Roman amphi. theatre ; Florence, the most remote, being distant by rail about sixty miles.

“From Leghorn to Naples (calling at Civita Vecchia to land any who may prefer to go to Rome from that point) the distance will be made in about thirty-six hours ; the route will lay along the coast of Italy, close by Caprera, Elba and Corsica. Arrangements have been made to take on board at Leghorn a pilot for Caprera, and, if practicable, a call will be made there to visit the home of Garibaldi.

“Rome [by rail], Herculaneum, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Virgil's tomb, and possibly the ruins of Pæstum, can be visited, as well as the beautiful surroundings of Naples and its charming bay.

"The next point of interest will be Palermo, the most beautiful city of Sicily, which will be reached in one night from Naples. A day will be spent here, and, leaving in the evening, the course will be taken towards Athens.

“Skirting along the north coast of Sicily, passing through the group of Æolian Isles, in sight of Stromboli and Vulcania, both active volcanoes, through the straits of Messina, with . Scylla' on the one hand and Charybdis' on the other, along the east coast of Sicily, and in sight of Mount Ætna, along the south coast of Italy, the west, and south coast of Greece, in sight of ancient Crete, up Athens Gulf, and into the Piræus, Athens will be reached in two and a half or three days. After tarrying here awhile, the Bay of Salamis will be crossed, and a day given to Corinth, whence the voyage will be continued to Constantinople, passing on the way through the Grecian Archipelago, the Dardanelles, the Sea of Marmora, and the mouth of the Golden Horn, and arriving in about forty-eight hours from Athens.

“After leaving Constantinople, the way will be taken out through the beautiful Bosphorus, across the Black Sea to Sebastopol and Balaklava, a run of about twenty-four hours. Here it is proposed to remain two days, visiting the harbours, fortifications, and battle-fields of the Crimea, thence back through the Bosphorus, touching at Constantinople to take in any who may have preferred to remain there ; down through the Sea of Marmora and the Dardanelles, along the coasts of ancient Troy and Lydia in Asia to Smyrna, which will be reached in two or two and a half days from Constantinople. A sufficient stay will be made here to give opportunity of visiting Ephesus, fifty miles distant by rail.

“ From Smyrna towards the Holy Land the course will lay through the Grecian Archipelago, close by the Isle of Patmos, along the coast of Asia, ancient Pamphylia, and the Isle of


[ocr errors]


Cyprus. Beirout will be reached in three days. At Beirout time will be given to visit Damascus ; after which the steamer will proceed to Joppa.

“ From Joppa, Jerusalem, the River Jordan, the Sea of Tiberias, Nazareth, Bethany, Bethlehem, and other points of interest in the Holy Land can be visited, and here those who may have preferred to make the journey from Beirout through the country passing through Damascus, Galilee, Capernaum, Samaria and by the River Jordan and Sea of Tiberias, can rejoin the steamer.

“Leaving Joppa, the next point of interest to visit will be Alexandria which will be reached in twenty-four hours. The ruins of Cæsar's Palace, Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, the Catacombs, and ruins of ancient Alexandria, will be found worth the visit. The Journey to Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles by rail can be made in a few hours, and from which can be visited the site of ancient Memphis, Joseph's Granaries, and the Pyramids.

“From Alexandria, the route will be taken homeward, calling at Malta, Cagliari (in Sardinia), and Parma (in Majorca), all magni. ficent harbours, with charming scenery, and abounding in fruits.

“A day or two will be spent at each place, and leaving Parma in the evening, Valencia in Spain will be reached the next morning. A few days will be spent in this, the finest city in Spain.

“ From Valencia, the homeward course will be continued, skirting along the coast of Spain. Alicant, Carthagena, Palos, and Malaga, will be passed but a mile or two distant, and Gibraltar reached in about twenty-four hours.

A stay of one day will be made here, and the voyage continued to Madeira, which will be reached in about three days. Captain Marryat writes : 'I do not know a spot on the globe which so much astonishes and delights upon first arrival as Madeira. A stay of one or two days will be made here, which, if time permits, may be extended, and passing on through the islands, and probably in sight of the Peak of Teneriffe, a southern track will be taken, and the Atlantic crossed within the latitudes of the North-east trade winds, where mild and pleasant weather, and a smooth sea can always be expected.

"A call will be made at Bermuda, which lies directly in this route homeward, and will be reached in about ten days from Madeira, and, after spending a short time with our friends the Bermudians, the final departure will be made for home, which will be reached in about three days.

Already, applications have been received from parties in Europe wishing to join the excursion there.

“The ship will at all times be a home, where the excursionists, if sick, will be surrounded by kind friends, and have all possible comfort and sympathy.

“Should contagious sickness exist in any of the ports named in the programme, such ports will be passed, and others of interest substituted,


« VorigeDoorgaan »