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MELBOURNE
GEORGE ROBERTSON 69 ELIZABETH-ST.

MDCCCLXXI.

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THE NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIETARY

108856B

ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDI FOUNDATIONS

1941

MSIBIRSE:

PRINTED BY WALKER, MAY AND CO.

99 BOL'RKE STREET WEST.

PREFACE.

This book is a record of a pleasure-trip. If it were a recorul of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is, to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who travelled in those countries before him. I make small pretence of showing anyone how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea -other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.

I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me--for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.

In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.

etet. 1941

THE AUTHOR,

so

SAN FRANCISCO, 1869.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

Popular Talk of the Excursion-Programme of the Trip-Duly

Ticketed for the Excursion-Defection of the Celebrities

CHAPTER II.

Grand Preparations—An Imposing Dignitary—The European

Exodus-Mr. Blucher's Opinion-State-room No. 10—The

Assembling of the Clans-At Sea at last

CHAPTER III.

“Averaging ” the Passengers—“Far, far, at Sea ”—Tribula-

tion among the Patriarchs-Seeking Amusement under

Difficulties—Five Captains in the Ship.........

CHAPTER IV.

The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated—Pilgrim Life at Sea-

“ Horse-Billiards "--The Synagogue”—The Writing

School-Jack's “Journal”—The " Q. C. Club”—The

Magic Lanter-State Ball on Deck-Mock Trials-

Charades—Pilgrim Solemnity-Slow Music—The Execu-

tive Officer Delivers an Opinion

CHAPTER V.

Summer in Mid-Atlantic An Eccentric Moon-Mr. Blucher

Loses Confidence—The Mystery of “Ship Time ”—The

Denizens of the Deep—“Land-Ho!”—The First Land-

ing on a Foreign Shore-Sensation among the Natives,

Something about the Azores Islands-Blucher's Diastrous

Dinner— The Happy Result .....

CHAPTER VI.

Solid Information-A Fossil Community-Curious Ways and

Customs—Jesuit Humbuggery-Fantastic Pilgrimizing-

Origin of the Russ Pavement-Squaring Accounts with

the Fossils—At Sea Again

CHAPTER VII.

A Tempest at Night-Spain and Africa on Exhibition-Greet-

ing a Majestic Stranger–The Pillars of Hercules—The

Rock of Gibraltar— Tiresome Repetition—"The Queen's

Chair"-Serenity Conquered-Curiosities of the Secret

Caverns— Personnel of Gibraltar-Some Odd Characters-

A Private Frolic in Africa—Bearding a Moorish Garrison

(without loss of life)—Vanity Rebuked-Disembarking

in the Empire of Morocco..

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CHAPTER VIII.
The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco --Strange Sights-A

Cradle of Antiquity-We become Wealthy-How they
Rob the Mail in Africa—The Danger of being Opulent in

Morocco

CHAPTER IX.

A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril—How they Mended the Clock-

Moorish Punishments for Crime-Marriage Customs-

Looking several ways for Sunday-Shrewd Practice of

Mohammedan Pilgrims-Reverence for Cats-Bliss of

being a Consul-General.......

CHAPTER X.

Fourth of July at Sea-Mediterranean Sunset-The “Oracle"

is Delivered of an Opinion-Celebration Ceremonies-

The Captain's Speech-France in Sight—The Ignorant

Native-In Marseilles-Another Blunder-Lost in the

Great City-Found Again-A Frenchy Scene... ....

CHAPTER XI.

Getting " Used to it”—No Soap-Bill of Fare, Table d'hôte-

“An American, Sir !" -- A Curious Discovery

The

“ Pilgrim ” Bird--Strange Companionship-A Grave of

the Living—A Long Captivity-Some of Dumas' Heroes

--Dungeon of the Famous 6 Iron Mask"

CHAPTER XII.

A Holiday Flight through France-Summer Garb of the

Landscape-Abroad on the Great Plains-Peculiarities of

French "Cars—French Politeness --- American Railway

Officials—" Thirty Minutes to Dinner !”-Why there

are no Accidents--The “ Old Travellers ”-Still on the

Wing-Paris at Last—French Order and Quiet-Place of

the Bastile-Seeing the Sights—A Barbarous Atrocity-

Absurd Billiards ...

CHAPTER XIII.

More Trouble Monsieur Billfinger-Re-Christening the

Frenchman-In the Clutches of a Paris Guide-The In-

ternational Exposition-Fine Military Review-Glimpse

of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey ....

CHAPTER XIV.

The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame-Jean Sanspeur's

Adilition-Treasures and Sacred Relics—The Legend of

the Cross—The Morgue–The Outrageous Can Can-

Blondin Aflame-The Louvre Palace-- The Great Park-

Showy Pageantry--Preservation of Noted Things

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