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CATANIA.

CHAPTER III.

CATANIA AND ITS MONUMENTS-MOUNT ETNA AND ITS PHENOMENA-ASCENT TO THE CRATER-TOUR AROUND THE MOUNTAIN.

READER, believe an old traveller, that there are few things in a small way that produce a more saddening revulsion of feeling, after anticipating your arrival at a really good inn-an oasis of comfort in a desert of dirt and filth-than to find it entirely altered, and the presiding spirit who once imparted to it warmth and cheerfulness, no longer among the living. Such, alas! is the case with the celebrated "Corona" at Catania, and its able, gentlemanly conductor, poor Abbaté, who was cut off during the recent struggle. It was generally reported that he was shot by accident; but certain parties to whom I applied told me a very different tale. According to their version, Abbaté, though he took no active part in the business, was known to be unfavourable to the popular party. When General Filangeri came to lodge at his house, he obtained, by some means, information of a plot to seize his person, and by warning him of his danger, enabled him to effect a timely escape. From this moment poor Abbaté was a marked man; and though it is generally said that he perished by an accidental discharge of fire-arms, there are others who believe that he fell a victim to the death-shot of some lurking assassin.

The streets of Catania, unlike those of most Italian cities, are broad and open, admitting a free circulation of air, but affording less shelter from the burning heat of the sun. Were the houses kept with the neatness of those of Valetta, this would be a very