CHAPTER XIV.

Howard quits Constantinople-Determines to risk the danger of confinement in a lazaretto-Visits the hospitals at Salonica-Proceeds to Scio—Revisits Smyrna -Sails for Venice-Is driven into Modon, in the Morea-Attack of a Tunisian privateer-Howard's courage-Arrival at Venice-Description of the health-office-Confinement in the lazaretto-Regulations of quarantine-Receives intelligence of his son's misconduct-Deep sorrow on the occasion-Efforts made to erect a monument to his memory-His extreme aversion to the measure-Termination of his quarantine-Its effects on his health-Zeal with which he again prosecutes his labours.

It was originally Howard's intention to have proceeded by land from Constantinople to Vienna; a journey which he had ascertained could be performed in twenty-four days; no quarantine being then required of travellers on the confines of the Hungarian dominions, where they were formerly detained more than twenty days. But it now occurred to him that he should be better acquainted with the laws of quarantine, and with the method pursued in the lazarettoes by actual experience than by any other means. Hence he determined to submit to the inconvenience, and risk the danger of a voyage to Venice, the place where lazarettoes were first established. Not satisfied with this, he resolved, in order to obtain the best information, by performing the

strictest quarantine, to return to Smyrna, and to take his passage thence to Venice, in a vessel with a foul bill of health. The plague had so recently committed its ravages in that city, that no vessel with a clean bill was cleared from that port.

Learning that there were at Salonica two large hospitals for the reception of patients infected with the plague, Howard proceeded thither in a small Greek boat, on his way to Smyrna. During this short voyage one of the passengers was taken suddenly ill. The captain conceiving Howard to be a physician, applied to him for advice. Never shrinking from danger, but ever ready to relieve the distressed, Howard visited the man in his cabin. His symptoms were most unfavourable; strongly indicating that he would shortly fall a victim to the prevalent malignant disease. Aware of the imminent danger to which all on board were now exposed, and of the probability that the danger would be increased by any imprudent disclosure, Howard had the presence of mind, and the courage to conceal his fears from the passengers and crew, disclosing them only to the captain and a French officer who was with him in the cabin, whom he advised not to approach too near the infected person, and to abstain from animal food. He gave the sick man such medicines as he thought suitable, and told the captain to keep him in a warm place, as much as possible by himself. They arrived in a day or two at Salonica, and the day afterwards the man died of the plague.

On inspecting the Greek hospital, which was then without a single patient, Howard regretted to find it surrounded by high walls, giving it an oppressive closeness, which affected his head as much as the most crowded prison, or the foulest lazaretto. The Jewish hospital was a striking contrast to this prisonlike institution: "Situated on an elevated spot in the midst of their burying-ground, some of the tombs

serving for tables and seats, it is," says Howard,

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a sort of spacious shed, divided in the middle by a wall, having the sides supported by pillars. It is lightsome and airy, and better accommodated for its purpose, than any I have seen. It would have greatly pleased my esteemed friend, Dr. Jebb, who says, in his Thoughts on the Construction of Prisons, that lofty walls and iron doors enclose a disease as effectually as misery of other kinds.”

The following extract from a letter, written from this place by Howard, to one of his friends in England, dated 22d July, 1786, describes his feelings, and partly developes his future plans :-"I am now bound for Scio, as the most celebrated hospital in the Levant is in that island: my quarantine of forty days' imprisonment is to be, I hope, at Venice. I could easily have made my route by land to Vienna, but should a lazaretto ever be established in England for our shipping, things which now appear trivial, may then be of much importance. I have therefore procured from the Venetian ambassador the strongest recommendations, to assist me in the minute observations I may make during my quarantine. I have visited all the prisons and hospitals in the places where I have been, but my interpreters are often very cross with me. I bless God that I continue well, with calm and steady spirits: I have indeed, at times, need of the most determined resolution, as, since I have left Helveotsluys, I have never been on board an English ship, nor travelled a single mile with any of my countrymen. I feel assured that I am engaged in a good cause, and am confirmed of having a good God and master. His approbation will be an abundant recompence for all the little pleasure I may have given up. At Smyrna I found the houses of the Franks, (as all are called who are not natives,) shut up. Every thing they receive is fumigated, and even their provisions pass through water. But

at Constantinople, where the disease is often more fatally malignant, and where many drop off suddenly, less rigorous measures are pursued. An instance of the suddenness with which the disease often terminates, recently came under my notice. No longer ago than last Thursday I was conversing with an eminent Italian merchant, and remarking to another gentleman, how sprightly he was; he replied, he had a fine trade, and was in the prime of life: but, alas! on Saturday he died, and was buried, having every sign of the plague."

Shortly after writing the above letter, Howard sailed for the island of Scio, where, after a tedious passage, he arrived safe. The hospital there was for the use of lepers; the only one of the kind he had ever seen. It contained about one hundred and twenty patients, males and females: each patient had a separate apartment, in a long range of rooms elevated above the ground. The situation was airy and pleasant; and most of the lepers had their own little garden, which supplies them with herbs, almonds and figs. A fine spring of water, issuing from the adjacent mountains, had lately been conducted through the institution, by which it was greatly benefited. Perceiving there were no baths, though there was an ample supply of water, Howard took the liberty, with his usual attention to cleanlinesss, to remark how much it would improve the institution, were a convenient bath made for each sex; an alteration which he requested the vice-consul to propose to the directors at their next meeting.

With as little delay as possible, Howard now again proceeded to Smyrna. On his arrival he immediately made inquiries for a vessel bound to Venice, and having met with one that suited his purpose, he sailed for that port. On their voyage the wind was often boisterous and stormy, and seldom in their favour. They put into Modon, in the Morea,

for water; and on leaving it were attacked by a Tunisian privateer, which fired into them with great force. The crew defended themselves for some time with much bravery, but became at length intimidated on account of the numbers that were against them, and the fear of being butchered by the Moors. Rallied, however, by the spirited exertions of Howard and the captain, they determined to make another desperate struggle. They loaded the largest gun they had on board with spikes, old nails, and whatever other missiles they could collect, and discharged it upon their enemy: it was pointed by Howard, and such was the effect it produced, that the privateer immediately sheered off, greatly to the joy of all on board.

The courage of Howard never forsook him on this occasion; amidst the danger to which he was exposed, his mind was peaceful and calm. Indeed, had he been aware of the extent of his danger, and known, as he afterwards learned, that the captain had determined, as the last resource, to blow up the vessel, rather than suffer perpetual slavery, his intrepidity and self-possession would doubtless have been the same. After this engagement, in which they happily lost no life, they proceeded pleasantly on their voyage, touching at Corfu, and at Castel Novo, in Dalmatia. The lazarretto at the former place is finely situated on a rock, surrounded by water, and about a league from the city. At the latter place it is on the shore, about two miles from the city. "At the back of it is a delightful hall," says Howard, "which belongs to a convent of friars. Persons in quarantine are allowed, after a few days detention, to walk there; but being in a vessel with a foul bill, I was not permitted to land, and was hence unable to visit either of these lazarettoes." There was much partiality in the regulations here; and Howard regretted that so little attention seemed to be