water like an astringent wash, feel more medicated than the sulphur waters, and in taste precisely resemble smoky warm water smacking somewhat of a rusty iron pot. Their effects on me were more exhilarating than those of the sulphurous wells. I came out braced, although I had soaked a full hour; felt neither languor nor lassitude; grew warm, and tingled; and experienced the full conviction of complete cleanliness.

June 29.-On St. John's day, the 24th of June, the bathing season commences, and the day is kept as a festival in the valley. The day before, the village began to fill with country people from the surrounding towns, and after mass they came numerously to Mr. Hickling's garden and shrubberies. Such is the easy freedom of the peasantry and the liberality of the owner of "the Tank," that all who choose stroll about in his grounds as if they were public gardens. A group of little girls, dancing to the tune they sang, figured away round a tree which stands in the centre of a shaded green plot; while on the small island, in the pond, a party of young men and maidens, full of life and fun and gaiety, danced with more activity, perhaps, than grace, to the notes of a jingling guitar, in a circle

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made by the lookers on. Women with bright shawls on their heads and shoulders, and men in large dark blue carapuças sauntered among the trees, looking each and all as blithe and light-hearted as children. While Mr. Hickling was showing to one of his acquaintance a portfolio of sketches, which lay on the table of a room opening into the garden, the drawings caught the eyes of several villagers who were passing through the grounds, and no sooner had they seen them than they quietly walked in with the easy self-possession of people who are quite at home, and looked at the sketches with much interest. In a short time the room, although large, was filled with peasants: some of the children and women tranquilly seated themselves on the floor, and as it rained the whole party of villagers remained more than an hour. Although they were of all ages, yet there was no sign of ill-breeding in any of them; all were quiet, natural, and unembarrassed. The next day being unfortunately wet from morning to night, (the only completely wet day we have known here, and an unusual circumstance,) the out-door amusements of the villagers were spoiled.

Sunday evening, June 30.-Looked into one

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of the cottages of the "Holy Spirit" as we passed. A number of men were standing at the door and at the windows with their hats off looking into the house the owner asked us to walk in, and we sat down on a large chest. On the opposite side of the room was a canopy made with coloured handkerchiefs and ribbons, and beneath this a silver crown and sceptre: small looking-glasses and rude pictures of saints in little frames were hung about it. The greater part of the ceiling cottage (the walls of which were

and sides of the

OF THE HOLY GHOST.

180

DANCING AT THE

with shawls and handkerchiefs of all colours tightly stretched over them. Round the room were men and women sitting on temporary benches, with children squatting on the ground in every vacant interstice and corner. The centre was completely filled with young girls and lads, dancing some simple figure, and occasionally "setting" to each other and snapping their fingers. Alternately a woman and a man, whilst dancing, sang, in a monotonous nasal tone and high key, what we were told were extemporaneous verses. A guitar was played by one who managed to thread his way amongst the thick crowd of dancers and to play at the same time with much dexterity. The dancers were not graceful. The old men and women did not join, but looked on with much seeming interest. There were no such accompaniments as would have been supplied under similar circumstances in England; nothing synonymous with beer and pipes. But what is a similar scene in England? We must go back to the middle ages to find a parallel, for this is part of a religious festival patronized and kept up by the priests.

*

* Mr. Brand in his Popular Antiquities quotes the following verses from Barnaby Googe, which refer to some such popular

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For several weeks these dancing parties have been held in the different towns of the various islands we have visited. The cottages which contain the silver crown and sceptre are, on Saturday and Sunday evenings, filled with dancers from six o'clock until midnight. We have not had an opportunity of witnessing the ceremonies in the churches, but the following is the description of the festival, which is given by Dr. Webster, in his excellent account, of the Island of St. Michael's.

66

Among the amusements of the peasantry at this time, is the festa do Espirito Santo,' a festival of the Holy Ghost, which takes place in every parish, and continues seven weeks. On each Sunday, during high mass, the priest places a crown of silver on the head, and a sceptre in the hand, of a peasant previously elected by the people. He is proclaimed "Emperador," and is

amusement, commemorative like this of a most solemn circumstance, the descent of the Holy Ghost.

"On Whit-Sunday whyte pigeons tame in strings from heaven flie,

And one that framed is of wood still hangeth in the skie; Thou seest how they with idols plaie, and teach the people

to ;

None other wise than little gyrles with puppets used to do."