events of old times are recapitulated, and illustrated by copious quotations from the writings of antiquity. The travellers went to see the famous cavern called the Ear of Dionysius; the account of which, as here given, differs in some respects from those of other travellers:

It is a large cavern, (says Lord S.) cut horizontally into a rock, 72 feet high, 27 broad, and 219 in depth: the entrance is of the shape of an ass's ear, and the inside somewhat of the form of the letter S. On the top of the cave, there is a groove, which runs from one end to the other, and has communication with a small room at the entrance, now inaccessible by reason of the height and steepness of the rock. This is imagined to have been a guard room where the tyrant used to place a sentinel, who by hearing every the least whisper of the prisoners within, made his report accordingly to his masters.' -The effects of the reverberation are so surprising, that people would be apt to think that those, who related them, were giving into a vice, of which all travellers are generally suspected guilty.'

Mr. Brydone assigns to the cave the exact form of the human ear, and gives larger dimensions than Lord S.: but, as he uses round numbers, our belief inclines most to the admeasurement before us. Some among later travellers deny the existence of any other than a rude or fancied resemblance in the cave to the structure of the ear, and deride the idea of such a design in its original formation. Lord Sandwich has supposed this cavern to be the Latumia Syracusana' noticed by Cicero: but most other travellers agree that the immense cavern which has been converted to a subterranean garden, and belongs to the convent of the Capuchins, was the Latumia to which Cicero alluded. This subterranean garden is not noticed by the Earl. Brydone, in his description, believes it to have been the quarry whence the materials for building the city of Syracuse were principally

taken.

Lord S. and his companions, having departed from Sicily, sailed towards Athens; and his Lordship has given classical and historical descriptions of the islands and head-lands in his course. A strong wind having obliged them to stop for shelter at the island of Milo, we are informed that the inhabitants of this very fertile island are kept poor by the great taxes laid on them by the Turks: that near the sea-shore is a hot spring rising up several yards from the land, which though it is surrounded by cold water, preserves a heat strong enough to boil an egg-that the dress of the women of this country is very particular; their petticoats coming no lower than their knees, in order to show (what with them is reckoned the greatest perfection) their thick legs. This is a fashion so much in vogue among them, that it is a common thing to see them

with seven or eight pair of stockings on, besides bandages round the small of the leg.'

At the island Egina, also, the travellers stopped. Some ruins of no great consequence are here noticed: but the most extraordinary circumstance related of this place is the prodigicus multitude of partridges, which swarm in such incredible numbers, that the people are obliged to go out every year purposely to break their eggs; fearing that, by devouring their corn, the birds should produce a famine.

Twelve hours after having left the island Ægina, they came to an anchor in the Piræum, now called Porto Leone, from a large hon of white marble that stood near it, which some years ago was carried away by the Venetians.'

When they arrived, we are not told; and the journal is often deficient in dates. The noble author has described the ports of the Piræum, Munychia, and Phalerus, and the most remarkable of the ruins in and near Athens: but so many descriptions and drawings of these remains of antiquity, the labours of diligent and scientific travellers, are already in the possession of the public, that we shall limit our notice of this part of the work to a few general remarks, and direct our attention principally to such matter as is more nearly connected with our own times. The Earl's descriptions may be consulted with advantage, by those who wish to examine and judge of the disagreements between the accounts of other travellers. He coincides with Le Roy in opinion that the stately ruins, commonly supposed to be the remains of a palace built by Adrian, but by Mr. Stuart conjectured to have been the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, are the remains of the Pantheon built by Adrian.

6

The travellers visited Megara, now only a village, but which still retains its antient name. The island of Salamis (now Colouri) was also visited. The inhabitants are Greeks. The author relates that, at a village called Ambelachi, near which are many ruins, heaps of broken columns, and inscriptions in abundance, we ordered the public crier to make proclamation that all such as had any ancient medals, should bring them to the house of the chief man of the place; where, for all such as were approved of, they should receive a para, which is about three farthings. It was not long before we had great quantities brought in, so that we collected about fifty, some of which were of value.'- The air on this island is esteemed very wholesome, a proof of which we were eye-witnesses of in two old men, the one, who had passed his 110th, the other his 115th year, both of them enjoying their senses and limbs still perfect.' Little is said of the modern state of Athens. Of thirteen hundred houses, one thousand were inhabited by Greeks, and

B 4

the

the remaining three hundred by Turks. The citadel was defended by a few cannon, and a Turkish garrison of about three hundred men. This seems to agree with Mr. Stuart's computation, that the number of inhabitants, when he was at Athens, amounted to between nine and ten thousand.

In the passage from Athens to Constantinople, the ship an-. chored at the island of Mycone, where she was detained ten days by a violent northerly wind. During this time, an expedition was undertaken in the long boat to Delos; where the voyagers saw the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, of which there remained nothing but a confused mass of broken columns, cornices, and architraves, and part of the colossal statue of the deity to whom the temple was dedicated, which wants legs and head; and at a small distance, a large plinth, that in all probability served as the basis of the statue, which we learn from the inscription was erected by the people of Naxos.' The ruins of the antient eity of Delos entirely covered all this part of the island, rendering it incapable of cultivation.

They stopped also at other islands of the Archipelago. Of the celebrated quarries of marble at Paros, we are told thatThe Turks are so blind to their own advantages as not to suffer the exportation of this valuable commodity, out of a religious fear lest the Christians should employ it in making statues, which is looked upon as a great abomination, and expressly forbidden by the law of Mahomet, as an impious imitation of the works of God.'

On their arrival at Constantinople, the voyagers waited on the English ambassador; in whose palace they were lodged during the whole time of their residence in that capital. The Hippodrome, the Mosques, and other publie buildings, are described.

Between two obelisks in the Hippodrome, is a brazen pillar twelve feet high, formed by three serpents twisted round one another; the heads of which being placed in a triangular position, composed a sort of capital. It is imagined that the golden tripod, offered as a present in the temple of Apollo at Delphi, by the united body of Greeks, after the battle at Platea, was supported by this serpentine pillar-Sultan Amurat, one day passing this way, to make an experiment of the strength of his arm, beat off the head of one of the serpents with his topouz (an instrument which the Turks use when on horseback): his followers, in imitation of their sovereign, destroyed the remaining two, and the pillar now remains destitute of its capital.'

During our stay in this vast metropolis, I applied my whole thoughts towards informing myself of the maxims and customs of a people so different from those, which I had till then been conversant with; in which inquiries I had very good success.' The Earl had

the

the good fortune to make acquaintance with a person who had long been conversant in the most eminent Turkish families, and been himself employed in many very important state transactions; till upon a change of ministry, (which too often, in these countries, proves fatal to all such as were engaged in the late administration) he was obliged to save his life by flying for refuge to the English Ambassador; who on our departure, sent him with us to Christendom, far out of the reach of his enemies persecutions.'

The character of the Turks, as here drawn, strongly expresses their great contempt of every nation and religion except their Haughty and arrogant in their prosperity; and, on the contrary, mean and abject under the frowns of fortune.' At the same time, the author praises their piety towards the Creator, their exact observance of the laws of their religion, their charity towards distressed persons, their unexampled integrity in trade,' and the general decorum of their manners.• When a Turk addresses his equal, he gives him the title of brother; if it be one older than himself, he calls him master; if one of fewer years, he speaks to him by the name of son.' A very particular account is given of their religion; which, perhaps, more than that of any other people, has moulded and fixed the character of its followers. The relation of the cere monies and formalities practised with sick people is curious:

When a person is at the point of death, his relations immediately send for the Imam of the parish, whose business it is to attend the person till the time of his death, to comfort him under his affliction, to exhort him to a sincere repentance of his sins, and repeat to him over and over the profession of the Mahometan faith. He afterwards begins to read, with a very audible voice, several chapters of the Coran, never desisting till the person has expired.'

Whatever benefit the sick man derives from such comfort in the next world, it deprives him of all chance of a longer continuance in this.

In speaking of the women, it is said that, notwithstanding the rigour of a despotic husband, whose power is almost unlimited, they have many opportunities of favouring a lover. Other travellers write differently. The author of Observations on the Government and Manners of the Turks asserts that "It is as easy to scale Heaven, as to come at the Turkish ladies." The following passage, in the volume before us, may possibly have been dictated by more fortunate experience; Their measures for procuring opportunities of frequent interviews are. always so well laid, that a discovery is next to impossible; and we may venture to affirm, that a person who had ever experienced an intrigue with a Turkish woman, would have no further taste for the ladies of any other country, whom they

would

would find, in every particular, so much their inferiors.' That the Earl remained always constant in this opinion may be much doubted. On the subject of divorces, he is less civil:- The wisdom of the Turkish law' leaving this matter wholly to the men, because women are of a more mutable temper,' the ladies cannot, except those of a very superior quality, get rid of a husband on any pretence. Considering how much the Turks are devoted to their religion, no greater insult perhaps could be offered to the sex, than that regulation which allows that a Christian woman may be married to a Turk without being obliged to change her faith.' The females of the royal family, however, may be affirmed to enjoy the most happy state of any in the whole Turkish empire. These princesses, as it is contrary to the law for them or their children to succeed to the sovereignty, are by no means looked upon with an eye of suspicion over them the husband has no sort of authority, and on the contrary is obliged to act more like their slave. They enjoy their revenues which belong to them as daughters to the Grand Signor, and are attended in a manner suitable to their rank and condition.'

The author has remarked that, in relation to their servants and domestics, there is no nation in the world happier than the Turks.' Very little of this happiness falls to the share of the servants; the majority of whom are slaves bought in the public market.

The greatest income of the Mirzas or Nobles consists of slaves and horses; of both which (to make use of the expression) they keep large studs, profiting by their increase and propagation. Of the servants bought in this manner, there is not one that dares offer a word in the presence of his master, without it is an auswer of some question, and that in very few words, and with the utmost deference and humility. They stand always with their hands crossed before them, observing every motion of their master, and by their obsequiousness almost preventing his desires. If they are found to be any way remiss in the performance of their duty, they are severely basti

nadoed.'

The description of the Turkish government includes an account of the different offices; as well those of the Seraglio, as those which are constituted for the management of public affairs; the military establishments, and the administration of justice; with a brief account of the different nations and sects subject to the Grand Signor. Lord S. concludes with observing that, in the fundamental rules, upon strict examination, one may discover many excellent maxims, originally well calculated for the advantage of the people, but wholly subverted by the injustice and wickedness of those in power.'