WATERING

AND

SEA-BATHING PLACES.

ABERYSTWITH.

THE romantic beauties of Wales in general, the purity of the air, and the change of objects so con ducive to the health of those who have been long pent up in towns and cities, intent on one unvarying train of business or amusement, together with the cheapness of provisions and accommodation, have tempted many, since travelling and sea-bathing have become so fashionable, to visit the Principality; and various places on its coast have been selected as stations, during a summer excursion.

One of the best-frequented of these, if we except Tenby and Swansea, is Aberystwith, a maritime town in Cardiganshire, situated on a bold eminence overhanging the sea, at the junction of the Ystwith and Rhydol. This town is 208 miles west-north-west of London, and seems to have risen into some consequence, since the decline of Llanbadarn Vawr, in which parish it lies.

Aberystwith is governed by a mayor, recorder, and other inferior officers. It is pretty large and populous: but the streets are rather steep and rugged; and the houses being principally built of the black slate which the country produces, this gives the whole a gloomy cheerless aspect. Yet the charms of the vicinity, the

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cheapness of accommodation, and the pleasantness and convenience of the beach, have long rendered it a favorite resort, not only for company from the neighbouring counties, but also for parties from different places in England; the bathing-machines are good; and though the situation is not very favourable for walks, there are one round the church-yard, and another by the side of the harbour, while a third, which is the most extensive, is traced out with some taste and ingenuity, among the fragments of the old castle.

The Talbot inn, kept by Mr. Jacob Jones, is a decent house of entertainment; and the lodgings, if not elegant, are at least commodious and reasonable. A good library here would be a valuable acquisition, as the social amusements are few.

"The sea-view," observes Mr. Skrine, in his Tour of South Wales, "comprehending the Caernarvonshire hills on the opposite side of the bay, continued very fine as we advanced toward Aberystwith, and most agreeably beguiled the labours of the road, which, winding over the rocky basis of the incessant hills, forbade any expeditious advance. In a narrow vale we crossed the Ystwith, by a bridge profusely decorated with ivy; and, ascending a steep rock from its banks, soon came in sight of the greater vale of Rhydol, and of the town of Aberystwith. This town, though forming a fine object as viewed from a sufficient distance, rather disappointed me when we reached it, the streets being steep and ill-paved; but we found it full of company, who must have been contented with very moderate accommodations."

Mr. Pratt, the Gleaner, too, gives no very favourable picture of this place, though he furnishes us with many interesting anecdotes of the manners of the inhabitants of the district; and as we cannot justly controvert the opinion of other travellers and tourists, in regard to the town of Aberystwith, after dispatching its brief history, we shall conduct our readers to some scenes in the vicinity, which will evince, that though the amusements here are few, the spot

has sufficient attractions to draw company, independently of the simple and hospitable manners of the inhabitants.*

TRADE.

Aberystwith is a place of considerable trade, and has a harbour deep enough to receive the larger Welsh coasting-vessels. It exports lead, calamine, and some manufactured articles, such as flannels and stockings, chiefly to Liverpool and Bristol; and imports, for the use of the country, cast-iron goods, coals, and also porter, a great quantity of which last is consumed during the bathing-season. Here is likewise a considerable fishery for cod, mackarel, and herrings so that, being sufficiently distant from any great public market, fish may generally be bought on very reasonable terms.+ The occasional arrival and sailing of ships gives some degree of animation to the scene.

CASTLE, &c.

Aberystwith has every appearance of having once been strongly fortified, and the remains of its castle

The ancient Britons of the Principality have been long, and justly, famed for hospitality to strangers; and their general character is truly estimable.

In the lower ranks, however, there are many peculiarities which may be ascribed to ignorance, and a very limited intercourse with the rest of the world. A considerable de gree of superstition is visible among the peasantry in general, and some of their customs can scarcely be reconciled to our ideas of decorum.

In 1732, a shoal of 113 bottle-noses, or porpoises, were stranded on the rocks in Cardigan-bay, and left a prey to the country-people, who drew considerable profit from the blubber. The largest of these fish was about fifteen feet long, and had been previously wounded. This is supposed to have been the reason why he was pursued by the rest, who hunted him so eagerly, that they ran themselves on the rocks. It is probable however, that they were allured by the herrings, which bound in this bay.

shew it to have been capable of a noble defence. It stands on a projection of slate rock, protecting the town on the sea-side, while on the other it commands the entire estuary of the Ystwith and Rhydol, with a charming view over the vale.

This castle was built by Gilbert de Strongbow, in 1106, during the reign of Henry I.; but being soon after demolished by Owen Gwineth prince of North Wales, was raised a second time in 1277 by Edward I. About the year 1377 we find it was in the possession of Owen Glyndwr, when it was besieged and taken by Henry IV. Glyndwr, however, afterward got it into his hands, and placed in it a strong garrison of his countrymen.

During the fatal contest between Charles I. and the parliament, it held out a long time for the king; but on his death it was obliged to surrender to Cromwell, after a long siege.

Within this castle Charles I. established a mint, for the convenience of paying the miners. Two silver pieces coined here, with the impression of an ostrich feather, the one current for 10s. and the other for 20s., are now in possession of Mr. Johnes, of Hafod.

Among the ruins of this castle is the favourite promenade, which from its elevation commands a magnificent view of the whole line of coast that forms Cardigan bay. This vast curve is formed by the projecting counties of Caernarvon to the north and Pembroke to the south, with the coasts of Merioneth and Cardigan in the centre. Nearly in the middle of this bay is seated Aberystwith, whence may be seen to the north a long irregular line, formed at first by the projecting coast of Merioneth, and then continued out to sea by the long mountainous promontory of Caernarvon, terminated by the isle of Bardsey. There is no station southward of Caernarvonshire, from which the Welsh Alps may be so advantageously seen, as Aberystwith castle, or some of the surrounding cliffs. The lofty hills which bound the estuary of the Dovey, and raise their broad backs far above the Cardigan rocks, are surmounted by

Cader Idris and its subject cliffs. These are overtopped by the giant mountains of Caernarvonshire, among which, in clear weather, the sharp peak of Snowdon itself may be discerned pre-eminent above the neighbouring crags. Southward of Aberystwith, the coast of Pembroke being less curved and not so lofty as the northern limit of the bay, the boundary line appears more uniform. This wide expanse of water, diversified by numerous vessels in every direction, some steering for different ports in the bay,. some farther out at sea slowly shaping their course for Liverpool, Bristol, or Irish havens, while others, almost stationary, are busily employed in fishing, affords a highly pleasing and amusing spectacle.

Northward of the castle is a level beach, some hundred yards in length, to which succeeds a long range of high slate-rocks, worn into caverns and recesses by the dashing of the waves, and affording a secure abode for hawks, ravens, and various species of sea-birds. At the foot of these cliffs extends a reef of low rocks, the crevices and pools of which are adorned with numerous beautiful corallines and fuci, and enlivened by different kinds of shell-fish and marine animals. At high tide these rocks are covered.

Contiguous to the castle, Uvedale Price, esq., of Herefordshire, has erected a singular castellated house, intended for a summer residence. It consists of three octagon towers, with a balcony facing the sea; the apartments are elegantly furnished, and from the windows is an extensive view of St. George's channel. The church, which is a new erection, is the only other edifice that demands particular attention.

Some valuable lead-mines lie in the vicinity of this place, which were formerly the property of the famous sir Hugh Middleton, and from the produce of which he was enabled to bring the New River to London in 1614.

On a high and steep elevation, near the new bridge over the Rhydol, is a large intrenchment, which vul