Autumnal flowers are less frequently seen on chapeaux of paille de riz: feathers are more in request for the exterior, and flowers for the interior; the feathers are generally bouquets of têtes de plumes, shaded in one of the colours of the flowers in the interior; it is always of different shades, of a full hue; the brides are generally of ribbon shaded to correspond. Capotes douillettes are likely to come into favour during the autumn; these wadded bonnets, originally an English fashion, have been in and out of favour several times: they have not yet appeared; but a capote which has something of their comfortable appearance, but not wadded, has just been brought out, under the name of the capote à basques; it is intended for the first approach of frost; it is composed of satin, and always dark or full colours. Swedish blue, dark green, and purple, are the favourite hues; basques, bordered with black lace, decorate the exterior; the interior is trimmed with narrow velvet of a striking colour.

Early as it is in the season for velvet to appear, I have seen a few chapeaux composed of it with a mixture of satin. Some are of a new shade of violet, lined with white satin, and trimmed with black lace, and two feathers of the same colour placed on one side. I have scen also some composed of black velvet and groseille satin in a very novel and tasteful manner. Two feathers-one black, the other groseille-were placed on one side of the exterior; velvet flowers, encircled with blonde lace, decorated the interior. Several capotes, of drawn shapes, composed of velours épinglé and satin, have appeared. The mixture of velvet and velours épinglé with satin for chapeaux and capotes is expected to be very fashionable as the season advances. Tulle capotes retain their vogue in half-dress, and probably will during the whole of the month. So also will those chapeaux composed of coloured crape, and ornamented with a succession of lace flounces. Some of the most novel have the crown bouillonné, and the brim trimmed with volants of different widths; a light sprig of flowers droops low on one side, and buds of the same decorate the interior. The capote à fond palmé is still more dressy; the crown, which gives its name to this pretty capote, is arranged in ten palmettes, alternately in crêpe lisse, and in pou-de-soie, all bouillonnés in the same manner. The bavolet is of silk, and trimmed with bouillons to correspond. The brim is very narrow, and com

posed of a sort of bouillonné of crape, edged with a rouleau, partly covered by a volant. A magnificent plume, drooping from the right to the left, shades the exterior; the interior is decorated with petits bouquets of the sweet-scented pea. Less showy, but equally elegant, is the capote Duchesse. The crown is of taffeta, placed very far back, and ornamented at the bottom with a knot of ribbon to correspond; the brim, composed of crape, is trimmed with five volants of the same material, each edged with a very narrow straw trimming; another, much larger, encircles the brim, and goes round the bavolet, which is also of crape; a row of broad blonde lace goes covers; it is repeated in the interior, where it is accompanied by two large bouquets of tuberoses and heath-blossoms, brought sufficiently near the brides not to derange the full bands in which the hair may be arranged. A petit bouquet of plumes, placed on one side of the exterior, completes the garniture of one of the prettiest and most novel capotes that has appeared this season.

Mantelets are expected to retain their vogue during the demi-saison; but those of a very light kind are disappearing gradually, even in carriagedress. The taffeta ones, richly embroidered in velvet and soutaches, that I have lately described, maintain their vogue. Some velvet mantelets have appeared, but they are not so numerous as velvet scarfs; their vogue is expected to continue till they are superseded by winter pardessus. The new scarfs are principally black; they are lined with coloured taffeta, generally of full shades of red; they have quite the scarf form at the back, and ter│minate in a point before. They are variously trimmed: some have a very broad effilé, of a rich but light kind; others have it intermingled with bugles, or headed by an embroidered border. Those that are considered most elegant are trimmed with two rows of broad black lace. A few velvet mantelets, with capuchons, have already been seen; these are intended for the evening walk in the country, or at the watering-places. The capuchon will prevent the fair wearer from taking cold, as it is sufficiently large to cover the head; and when not so employed it has quite the effect of a pelerine. These mantelets may be trimmed either with lace or passementerie. I should observe, also, they are employed for evening-wraps for balls and soirees at the spas.

A novel kind of pardessus has just appeared, that is likely to be a favourite—at least for some time; it is called Frileuse d'Automne; it is composed of taffeta, shot in full colours, very lightly wadded, and lined with slight silk. The form, something in the style of a burnous, envelopes the figure in ample folds; but does not descend quite so low it is in two falls behind, but only one in front, and is made with a capuchon of a large size. The garniture is black lace, headed by a row of black velvet ribbon. The capuchon is also decorated with knots of black velvet.

I may cite also a mantelet that is expected to appear early in October. It is composed of fine light grey cloth, and lined with rose-colour, or blue taffeta. It is made without a seam, very full, and falling low at the back, where it is rounded in a half circle.

of the latter kind have just appeared; pensée is also a good deal in request. Trimmings have not varied much, but black lace seems predominant. Some redingotes, composed of lavender grey taffeta, had corsages high at the back, opening in a short V on the bosom, and decorated en revers with black lace laid flat. Sleeves not quite a three-quarter length, moderately wide at the bottom, and arched very

There seems no doubt that the manteau Talma, so much in favour last year, will resume its vogue. I have seen some already, composed of velvet and trimmed with galon, half velvet half silk. There are three rows, at different distances; the bottom and the top row are both the same breadth-rather more than an inch; that in the middle is double the width. A silk effilé, of great breadth and beauty, completes the garniture. An elegant manteletécharpe for the public promenade has just appeared; it is composed of black velvet à jour à rosaces gothique; it is lined with violet satin, and trimmed with a rich effilé in silk and chenille. The heading of the effile is in the Byzantine style, and extremely

beautiful.

The déshabilles Pompadour are now much in favour for morning dress in the country; they are composed of muslins printed in the large flowered patterns that were fashionable for the chintzes of our great grandmammas, or percaline of a white ground strewed with small coloured bouquets, and are ornamented with festooned garnitures, decorated more or less with knots of ribbon, confining the ceinture and looping the sleeves, or placed on the corsage. These are succeeded for dinner dress by taffeta robes with corsages Louis Quinze, and skirts trimmed with three flounces, either festooned or bordered with narrow velvet ribbon. Or, if the robe is of striped or shot silk, the flounces are edged with a narrow effilé in the colours of the robe.

Velvet has been a good deal employed within the last few days in the garnitures of caps; some, for a simple style of dress, are composed of lace, and trimmed with green ribbons intermingled with narrow black velvet ones; others have tulle ruches and narrow rose-coloured velvet ones; a third sort are composed of blonde, and are ornamented with effilés as narrow as the rose-coloured velvet ribbons: these effilés are of various colours, and have a very original effect. The majority of caps are pointed on the forehead, but very lightly. Those for dinner are generally of blonde. Some have all the ornaments of narrow grenat velvet placed on a satin biais, forming lisere; the flowers are of grenat velvet; blonde lappets supply the place of brides. Other caps, more of a fancy kind, are also composed of blonde and trimmed with tufts formed of rings of narrow rosecoloured velvet ribbon; they are in full clusters and droop low.

Redingotes are still predominant for the promenade, both at the Spas and the sea-side; those of contil and Nankin have superseded the peignoirs, with mantelets of the same, composed of plain or printed perkale, which were recently adopted for the early morning walk to the baths, or to drink the waters; but as they afford no novelty I shall confine my observations to those worn in the afternoon for the public promenade or carriage dress. They are mostly of taffeta, either chiné in autumnal hues, or else grey, or neutral tints. Some new ones

flat. The revers and the cuffs are encircled on each side with a narrow fulling of ribbon of the colour of the robe; the corsage is trimmed from the opening but broader, and festooned at the edges. Two monto the bottom of the waist with knots of the same, tants, forming a fontange of ribbon intermingled attached from distance to distance by knots of ribwith lace, adorn the front of the skirt; they are bon to correspond. This style of trimming has a very rich effect.

Another still more novel and dressy style has appeared on redingotes of different coloured taffetas; of pensée; they are trimmed down each side of the I may cite among the prettiest one of a bright shade front, round the corsage, and at the bottoms of the sleeves, with a new kind of embroidery composed of velvet spots of different sizes, increasing gradually

as they mount from the bottom of the ski:t to the waist, and encircling in their smallest size the round of the revers of the corsage, and the revers of the sleeves; they are of a darker shade than the robe, and attached by a thick cordonnet, which encircles each spot.

The materials for robes in carriage and public promenade dress have not as yet absolutely changed. Much depends upon the weather; when that is warm and fine, half transparent materials are nearly as much seen as silks. But on cold and gloomy days light materials disappear; silks, and even cashmeres and poplins take their place. Though the redingote form is preferred, robes are equally fashionable; the garnitures are tucks or flounces, but a number of dresses are made without trimmings round the border. Reports are in circulation that the width of skirts will be reduced on the approach of winter. It is, however, little likely to be the case, as even during the last few months they have rather increased than otherwise. Black robes are very much in vogue both in promenade and halfdress; they are composed not only of silk, but of barège and grenadine. Satiu and moire robes are trimmed with deep volants of Chantilly lace, or ruches of lace disposed en tablier. Taffeta robes are decorated with deep and full garnitures, or else the volants are covered with narrow velvet ribbons disposed in embroidery. Black grenadine and barège robes have corsages half-high, or open in front in the canezou style; they are trimmed with lace intermingled with light ornaments in bugles. The half pagoda sleeves are finished at the bottom to correspond. The skirts are decorated with three or seven volants of the same material, festooned and embroidered In some instances the rolants are surmounted with a narrow braiding of bugles, so delicately worked that it does not give the least appearance of heaviness to the dress.

Barège, organdi, and mousseline de soie, divide the vogue with silks for the négligé du soir, now so prevalent; white is very predominant. I must observe also that several silk robes are quite in the winter style; for example, the taffeta with black lace flounces; several of these have the corsages trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon; it seems likely that this style of garniture will be much in

ones are not yet laid aside. The new hues are maroon, some dark shades of green, violet, lavender, orange, and grey.

These taffetas are much in vogue for elegant dinner robes; I may cite among the most admired those with corsages a three-quarter height at the back, very open in front, and finished with small basquines. The corsage is ornamented with nœuds fontanges of ribbon shaded in different shades of the ground of the robe; the space left between each knot displays a guimpe composed of point d'Alençon, and embroidered entre-deux. Demi-pagoda sleeves, ruffles of point d'Alençon, surmounted by three ruches of very narrow ribbon. The skirt, trimmed with three volants, has each of them bordered by three ruches to correspond. Three similar ones encircle the basquines.

One of the favourite silks in evening dress is a taffeta with a cendre de rose ground, strewed with wreaths of lilies; the corsage Louis Quinze, low and very open in front, has the centre ornamented by traverses of rose-coloured ribbon, quilled. Silk robes are mostly worn with berthes Chatelaine of point d'Alençon; this berthe covers the back and part of the sleeves, narrowing very much as it descends, en cœur, on each side of the corsage; it increases in width at the bottom of the waist, and turns entirely round the back in the form of a basquine. The effect is novel and very rich.

Mousseline de soie and barège robes are a good deal seen in evening dress, with lace canezous; the canezou is very open on the bosom, and terminates in long basquines all round the waist; it is attached at the ceinture by a chou of ribbon. Organdi robes of the finest and clearest kind are a good deal seen in evening dress; they are worn over coloured taffeta; there are two skirts each, embroidered and trimmed with a lace volant; the corsage, low and full, has a double berthe of lace corresponding with the flounces; it descends before, a little in the form of a fichu Marie Antoinette, and is attached in the centre by a knot of ribbon of the colour of the silk skirt.

Among some splendid coiffures recently forwarded to a foreign princess, there is a chapeau of azure blue velvet, with the brim turned up, and trimmed with a bouquet of white plumes on one side, and tulle blonde drooping on the neck on the other. It appears that these chapeaux, which have been long out of favour, are likely to be revived. Another coiffure, of a deeper shade of blue, is trimmed round with very small gold ornaments, drooping, so that as they encircle the head it looks like a rain of gold. A third head-dress, composed of white gauze, is decorated only with a gold cord, which forms the coiffure into a most becoming shape.

Flowers are at this moment the only ornaments adopted for the hair in evening dress. Autumnal flowers divide the vogue with wild ones, and roses of different kinds-particularly moss-roses. There are also some new wreaths; one in particular, composed of roses and fancy flowers intermingled, is remarkably pretty.

Autumnal colours begin to appear, though light

FIRST PLATE.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS. Green taffeta

arm.

redingote; a high close corsage, and sleeves a halflength over wide muslin ones, confined by a wristband, and trimmed with lace turning up on the The front of the skirt and the corsage is decorated with passementerie and brandebourgs of a novel kind. Green pou-de-soie chapeau, a round open shape, the interior of the brim trimmed with roses panaches and green brides; the exterior with lace and white têtes de plumes, shaded and spotted with green. Petit pardessus of black gros d'Espagne; a close-fitting corsage, a three-quarter height at the back, and moderately open on the bosom. Pagoda sleeves, rather more than a halflength. The skirt descends only a little below the hips. The pardessus, festooned all round, is trimmed at the bottom with a broad rich soft fringe, surmounted by three rows of narrow black velvet ribbon, arranged in festoons: they are carried up the fronts and round the corsage. The sleeves are similarly bordered, and terminated with fringe.

MORNING DRESS.-Grey taffeta robe; the corsage, rather more than a three-quarter height at the back, opens in front in a wide V, and descends in a short round basquine. Sleeves of a half-length, tight to the arm, finished with a volant of the same, arranged in the pagoda form. The corsage is bordered with a trimming of taffeta disposed à la vielle, and edged with blue satin; the garniture of the sleeves edged in the same manner, and surmounted, as is the volant on the basquine to correspond. Three deep volants, similarly edged, encircle the skirt. A ceinture of rich blue ribbon, with long floating ends, completes the garniture of the dress. Muslin under-sleeves, and chemisette; the latter has the collar edged with lace. Fancy chapeau, formed of alternate bands of blue ribbon and straw; the interior trimmed with buds of white flowers and blue brides; the exterior with a white rose, embedded in a tuft of green foliage, and blue buds on each side.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

No. 3. MORNING VISITING DRESS.-Lilac taffeta robe; the corsage, high at the back, open on the bosom, is trimmed with lace standing up, and partially shews a lace guimpe; it is trimmed down the sides with three rows of passementerie of a darker shade, and is slashed at the bottom. The sleeves, rather more than a half-length, and very wide at bottom, are slashed in front of the arm: the slashes are bordered with passementerie. Three rows of the same surmount lace ruffles of three falls. Oiseau pou-de-soie capote, a drawn shape; the interior trimmed with puffed ribbon, and brides to correspond; the exterior with a tuft of wild flowers and grass on each side. A velvet or silk scarf should be worn with this dress.

No. 4. HOME DRESS.-Muslin robe, made quite up to the throat, and profusely trimmed with ribbon, lace, and embroidery. Long sleeves, of mo