Dearest Walter, speak not thus; thou art tried, but oh, despair not; For the blessed angels gaze on thee with eyes of love serene; And the holy Christ himself, even though He seem to care not, Is watching o'er the temple where His footsteps once have been. "Keep that temple pure and garnished, let the lamp be still kept burning; Wait in silence and in patience, heed no voice of scorn without; Be sure there is a moment for the piteous Lord's returning; Already breaks upon my ear the sweet Hosanna shout. "Read His words as words of love, like a tender babe confiding; Take His voice for that of Truth, though thou may'st not understand; Shines not the Sun, my cousin, though the clouds his orb be hiding? Just so behind thy spirit-cloud shines yonder heavenly land." V. Came the unchaining of his spirit; flashed the truth Only one had spanned the width of this tried and upon his vision, "Alleluia!" cried the student as he raised his hands on high; "Once the boundless Mind of Heaven with my own comes in collision, And the golden chain of Faith is linked with God beyond the sky!" tender spirit, Once companion of his childhood, now his loved and honoured wife; Together went they onward to the heaven we all inherit, And her presence filled like incense every passage of his life. MIGNONETTE. BY MRS. ABD Y. "Your qualities surpass your charms." I never pass the Mignonette with cold, averted eyes, Because it doth not boast the gift of rich and vivid dyes; Though like a frail and lowly weed to some it seem to be, The "qualities" that dwell in it are more than "charms" to me. How eagerly the longing sense its kindly odour greets! How the soft breezes far and near are laden with its sweets! The bloom of bright aud beauteous flowers I never can regret, Language of Flowers. well their inward "qualities" the lack of "charms" supply; Often in walks and ways like these are England's daughters met, When I breathe the welcome fragrance of the plea- Diffusive in their bounties as the lavish Mignonette. WORK. BY THE EDITRESS OF "THE LADY'S LIBRARY. MANDARIN SLEEVE. IN DENTELLE ANTIQUE. MATERIALS:-A dozen yards of Italian Braid; Evans's Mecklenburg Thread, No. 1 and No. 80, and Evans's Point Lace Cottons. 1 In braiding this pattern, make the scallop of the outer edge in one continuous line; then do the flowers which are seen within the circles. The engraver has, by a pardonable error, overlooked the fact that the braid is carried from the large single flower in one round to the smaller one in the other. Begin with the cup of the large flower; having braided that flower completely, carry the braid into the adjoining round, and make the other flower with its little scroll. Fasten off the braid, and then do the small flower which comes beyond the circle. The flowers of the whole sleeve should be braided before the circles are made; they will then be done in one continued line, by beginning at one end, and forming alternately the upper half of one round, and the lower of another, along the whole pattern; then, without fastening off, braid back, completing each circle. specimens of lace as beautiful as any that ever | To fasten off the braid, turn in a small piece, graced the persons of the beaux and belles of sewing over the edge a little to prevent it from olden time. One great difficulty, however, that unravelling. I have had to encounter, has been the nonexistence of many of the proper materials. The threads and cottons manufactured by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, were literally the only ones with which I could work the designs I have hitherto made; and I am indebted to their exertions for two new threads which they are producing expressly for this work. The one is an extra coarse linen (Mecklenburgh), called No. 1, used instead of braid for outlines. The other is a cotton so fine, that I scarcely know how to number it; but it will be found admirably suited to the fine point of which I gave a specimen last month. The Italian braid I have been trying to obtain for eighteen months past, and have only now found one person to make it as I wished. It is composed wholly of linen, and has an edge like Brussels. The pattern from which I took it was at least 150 years old. Of course at present the supply is limited, which must be my apology should my friends find any delay in my executing their orders, as I can only send it according to the priority of application for it. A section of the sleeve is given of the full size, to enable the worker to trace from it without difficulty. It must be repeated as often as may be required for the length of each sleeve. The pattern is to be drawn on coloured paper, and mounted on stout linen, the edges of which should turn over the paper to preserve it. The broad lines which form the scallop and the scroll-work of the pattern are done with Italian braid. The small flowers, and upper edge, are done with No. 1 Mecklenburgh, for a foundation. It is put on as I described in my instructions for Collar No. II., last month.* For the upper edge of the sleeve two lines of the thread should be used. The first will be carried from flower to flower, and only go along the line in the intermediate When the entire length of the sleeve spaces. is thus done, the thread may be carried back along the line. For the other flowers, the thread must be cut off, after forming the outline of each one, and the little end which is left may be worked in when the button-hole work over the thread is done. The Italian braid should be tacked on at each edge, being held in a little at the inner one when fulness occurs. In forming small scallops and sharp points, it is always better to turn in a piece, so as to be visible only on the wrong side of the lace, than to spoil the edge by turning it over. All the thread outlines are to be covered closely with button-hole stitch. The edge is one which will at once be recognized by all admirers of old lace. It is formed of loops of thread, covered with button-hole, the outer edge having dots like those on the Raleigh bars. The whole grounding of this lace is in Raleigh bars, for which I gave instructions in my last number. They may be worked in Mecklenburgh No. 80. It now only remains for me to give a list of the threads to be used for the different stitches. A. In the cup of the flower is a Mecklin stitch, round which is another, larger, circle of dotted Venetian. Evans's Mecklenburgh, No. 120. a. Mecklin lace; the same thread. 100. c. Venetian Lace. No. 70. d. Open English. 120. Evans's Boar's Head, No. Evans's Boar's Head, Evans's Bar's Head, No. e. Rosettes. Evans's Mecklenburgh, No. 100. f. English lace. Evans's Boar's Head, No. 100. There are some flowers filled up with a stitch like very small Mecklin, erroneously marked ƒ. It is, in fact, a sort of Mecklin, the bars being worked over in button-hole, and then a very small round at every other crossing; while at the intermediate ones a dot only is made between every two threads. Use Evans's Boar's Head, No. 120. * For Elementary Instructions to make Point Lace, see the "New Monthly Belle Assemblée," January, 1851. INFANT'S FIRST SOCK. IN KNITTING. MATERIALS:-Evans's Knitting Cotton, or Boar's Head, No. 60; 5 of Boulton's Knitting Needles No. 19 or 22.-Observe that only four needles are used, except when knitting the heel of the sock. Cast on 80 stitches, namely 26 on each of two needles, and 28 on the third. Close into a round. FOR THE RIBBING.-Knit 2, purl 2, all round, and repeat until about 2 inches are done. After this, knit 8 rounds plain, except the last stitch of each round, which is to be alternately knitted and purled for the seam-stitch (as the stitch down the back of the leg is called). This seam-stitch I reckon as the last of the round. Arrange the needles for the pattern by placing 35 stitches on the centre needle, 22 on the first, and 23 on the last; this one being the needle terminating in the seam-stitch. 1st round of pattern. K 17, xml, k 2 t, k 9, X 4 times, m 1, k 2 t, k to the end. 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 7th rounds. Plain knitting, purling the seam-stitch where required. 3rd. K 15, x k 2 t, m 1, k 1, m 1, k 2 t, k 6, x 4 times, k 2 t, m 1, k 1, m 1, k 2 t, k 16. 5th. Like 1st. 8th. Like 1st. 9th. Like 3rd. 10th. K 14, x k 2 t, m 1, k 3, m 1, k 2 t, k 4, X 4 times, k 2 t, m 1, k 3, m 1, k 2 t, k 14, purl 1. 11th to 14th. K 15. x m 1, k 2 t, k 1, slip 1, k 1, pass the slip-stitch over, m 1, k 6, x 4 times, m 1, k 2 t, k 1, slip 1, k 1, pass the slipstitch over, m 1, k 15, and alternately knit and purl the last. 15th. K 16, x m 1, slip 2 together, k 1, pass the 2 over, m 1, k 8, x 4 times, m 1, slip 2 together, k 1, pass the 2 over, m 1, k 17. 16th. Plain knitting, purl seam. 17th. K 15, x m 1, k 2 t, k 1, slip 1, k 1, pass the slip-stitch over, m 1, k 8, x 4 times, repeat again, knitting 16. 18th. K 16, x m 1, k 3 together, in the same manner as before described, m 1, k 8, x 5 times, k 8, pl. 19th. K 16, x k 2 t, m 1, k 9, X 5 times, k 9. 20th. A plain round, diminishing for the ancle by knitting two together on each side of the seam-stitch, allowing one plain stitch on each side before the decreasing. This is always the way of decreasing the leg of a sock. 21st. K 13, x m 1, k 2 t, k 3, k 2 t, k 4, X 5 times, k 14. 22nd and 23rd. Like 17th and 18th, with one less at the beginning and end, to allow for de crease. 24th. K 12, x m 1, k 2 t, k 5, slip 1, k 1, pass slip over, m I, k 2, x 5 times, k 12, p 1. 25th, 26th, and 27th. Like 21st to 23rd. 28th. Like 20th. 29th. Plain. 30th. K 9, × slip 1, k 1, pass slip over, m 1, x 28 times, k 10, p 1. 31st and 32nd. Like 30th. 33rd, 34th, and 35th. K 10, x m 1, k 2 t, x 28 times, knit 10 or purl the last in every alternate round; repeat those six rounds three times more, and sufficient will then be done to allow for the beginning of the heel. For this purpose one needle must have half the whole number of stitches, or 18 stitches on each side of the seam-stitch, which is to be in the centre of the long needle. The remaining stitches are distributed on two other needles. The rounds having hitherto ended with the seam-stitch, the next 18 loops must be knitted thus before beginning to knit the long needle backwards and forwards for the heel: K 9, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip over, m 1, x 3 times, k 3. 1st row of HEEL (Purled). P 3, x m 1, p 2 t (taking the stitches from the back, as already described), x 3 times, p 9, k 1, p 10, *m 1, p 2 t (as before), 3 times, p * 2. 2nd (Knitted). K 2, x slip 1, k 1, pass slip over, m 1, x 3 times, k 20, repeat between X X, k 3. 3rd and 5th. P 2, x p 2 together the common way, m 1, x 3 times, p 10, k 1, p 9, repeat from X to X, p 3. 4th. K 3, xm I, k 2 t, x 3 times, k 20, * m 1, k 2 t, 3 times, k 2. * 6th and 8th. Like 2nd. 7th. Like 1st. 9th to 14th inclusive. Like 3rd to 8th. Purl the next (except the centre stitch); then alternately knit and purl 6 rows, knitting the seam-stitch in the three purled rows. Knit and purl alternately eight more rows, decreasing on each side of the seam-stitch, in the four knitted rows, in the same way the leg was diminished. Knit to the seam-stitch of the next row. TO CLOSE THE HEEL.-Half the stitches of heel being on each of the two needles, lay them together, with the purled side outermost, and with the fifth needle (which has never before been used) knit the seam-stitch; then knit 2 together, taking one from each needle, pass the 1st over, knit 2 more together, pass the one over x, repeat till all are knitted off the two needles. Turn the heel on the right side, and take up the edge-stitches to the front of the sock. There should be 18 stitches, of which the last may be slipped on the front row, which is to be knitted thus:-X slip 1, knit 1, pass slip-stitch over, m 1, x to the end. Take up 18 stitches at the other side of the heel, and as there was one remaining when the heel closed, of course there are now 18 on both the heel needles, the front one having 40 stitches. Every round is now considered to begin from the top of the heel 1st and 2nd. K 12, x slip 1, k 1, pass slip over, m 1, x 26 times, k 12. was It will be seen there are now 24 stitches in plain knitting at the sole of the foot. These must be gradually diminished to 14, by knitting together the two preceding, and following the pattern stitches until there are only 7 plain on each of the heel needles. The decrease is to take place in every alternate round. The pattern continues as before thus : 3rd, 4th, and 5th. K 1, x k 2 t, m 1, x 26 times. over, m 1, x 26 times. 6th, 7th, and 8th. x slip 1, k 1, pass slip For the intermediate plain stitches I have already given directions, and the pattern (composed of the above 6 rows) is to be repeated to the toe. Then divide the stitches as nearly as possible into three equal parts, the greater number (should there be a surplus) being on the front needle. Knit 6 rounds plain, then decrease for the toe thus: 1st round. K 1, k 2 t, knit plain to within 3 of the end, slip 1, k 1, pass slip-stitch over, k 1. Each of the three needles is to be knitted in the same way. 2nd. Plain knitting. stitches is diminished to about 20; slip them on Repeat these two rounds until the number of two needles, adding what may be necessary at each end of the front needle, and cast off, taking a stitch from each needle. Children's socks may be marked in knitting, by making eyelet-holes in the plain part of the foot. Socks may perhaps be bought more cheaply, but still there are circumstances, in the life of most women, when doll-dressing, in all its branches, is as great a pleasure as it ever is in more juvenile days; and it is in consideration of those who can enjoy this pleasure that we give, from time to time, the Lilliputian receipts. KNOTTED NECK-TIE. MATERIALS: Of 2 shades of Pink Floss Silk, 4 skeins dark, and 3 light skeins of brown ditto. For the mode of knitting, see the diagrams and instructions for the hair-net in our last number. For this neck-tie the floss-silk is cut into lengths of 14 yards each; 4 lengths of brown, 16 of the darkest pink, and 8 of the light. They are arranged thus: 2 brown at each border, then 8 dark pink, and 8 light for the centre. To give the ends a richer appearance, the strands are used double, short xtra pieces, 8 inches long, being used with the others, and a short and a long used together as one. Begin by knotting the ends together, in one firm knot for every pair, that is, 2 short and 2 long, leaving a fringe 2 inches long; then proceed with the usual knot, working alternately with the outer (No. 1) strand, and the inner (No. 4). Where a succession of knots are made, they are always thus rev.rsed:-Do 4 knots with the same set along the row, then 4 with the intermediate, omitting altogether the two pairs at the edges: allowan inch of silk between the rows of |