low banks where it issues from Lake Erie, and varying in width from one to three miles. It here resembles a prolongation of the tranquil lake, being interspersed with low wooded islands. This lake-like scenery continues for about fifteen miles, during which the fall of the river scarcely exceeds as many feet, but on reaching the rapids, it descends over a limestone bed about 50 feet in less than a mile, and is then thrown down about 165 feet perpendicularly at the Falls. The largest of these, called the Horseshoe Fall, is 1800 feet, or more than a third of a mile, broad, the island in the midst somewhat less in width, and the American Fall about 600 feet wide. The deep narrow chasm below the great cataract is from 200 to 400 yards wide, and 300 feet deep; and here in seven miles the river descends 100 feet, at the end of which it emerges from the gorge into the open and flat country, so nearly on a level with Lake Ontario that there is only a fall of about four feet in the seven additional miles which intervene between Queenston and the Lake. The great ravine is winding, and makes a turn nearly at right angles to itself at the whirlpool, where the Niagara sweeps round a large circular basin, but it is represented in the frontispiece as nearly straight, for the sake of showing the stratification; and its proportional height is purposely exaggerated. At some points the boundary cliffs are undermined on one side by the impetuous stream, but there is usually a talus at the base of the precipice, supporting a very ornamental fringe of trees,

It has long been the popular belief, from a mere cursory inspection of this district, that the Niagara once flowed in a shallow valley across the whole platform from the present site of the Falls to the Queenston

heights, where it is supposed the cataract was first situated, and that the river has been slowly eating its way backwards through the rocks for a distance of seven miles. According to this hypothesis, the Falls must have had originally nearly twice their present height, and must have been always diminishing in grandeur from age to age, as they will continue to do in future so long as the retrograde movement is prolonged. It becomes, therefore, a matter of no small curiosity and interest to inquire at what rate the work of excavation is now going on, and thus to obtain a measure for calculating how many thousands of years or centuries have been required to hollow out the chasm already excavated.

It is an ascertained fact, that the Falls do not remain absolutely stationary at the same point of space, and that they have shifted their position slightly during the last half century. Every observer will also be convinced that the small portion of the great ravine, which has been eroded within the memory of man, is so precisely identical in character with the whole gorge for seven miles below, that the river supplies an adequate cause for executing the task assigned to it, provided we grant sufficient time for its completion.

The waters, after cutting through strata of limestone, about fifty feet thick in the rapids, descend perpendicularly at the Falls over another mass of limestone about ninety feet thick, beneath which lie soft shales of equal thickness, continually undermined by the action of the spray driven violently by gusts of wind against the base of the precipice. In consequence of this disintegration, portions of the incumbent rock aro left unsupported, and tumble down from time to time,

so that the cataract is made to recede southwards. The sudden descent of huge rocky fragments of the undermined limestone at the Horseshoe Fall, in 1828, and another at the American Fall, in 1818, are said to have shaken the adjacent country like an earthquake. According to the statement of our guide in 1841, Samuel Hooker, an indentation of about forty feet has been produced in the middle of the ledge of limestone at the lesser fall since the year 1815, so that it has begun to assume the shape of a crescent, while within the same period the Horseshoe Fall has been altered so as less to deserve its name. Goat Island has lost several acres in area in the last four years, and I have no doubt that this waste neither is, nor has been, a mere temporary accident, since I found that the same recession was in progress in various other waterfalls which I visited with Mr. Hall, in the state of New York. Some of these intersect the same rocks as the Niagara-for example, the Genesee at Rochester; others are cutting their way through newer formations, as Allan's Creek below Le Roy, or the Genesee at its upper falls at Portage. Mr. Bakewell calculated that, in the forty years preceding 1830, the Niagara had been going back at the rate of about a yard annually, but I conceive that one foot per year would be a much more probable conjecture, in which case 35,000 years would have been required for the retreat of the Falls from the escarpment of Queenston to their present site, if we could assume that the retrograde movement had been uniform throughout. This, however, could not have been the case, as at every step in the process of excavation the height of the precipice, the hardness of the materials at its base, and the quantity of fallen matter to be re

have

moved, must have varied. At some points it may receded much faster than at present, at others much slower, and it would be scarcely possible to decide whether its average progress has been more or less rapid than now.

Unfortunately our historical evidence of the former condition of the cataract is meagre and scanty in the extreme. Sixty years ago, the whole district between Lakes Erie and Ontario was a wilderness in which the Indian hunter chased the bear and the buffalo. When at Boston, my attention was called by Mr. Ingraham to a work translated from the original French of Father Hennepin, a missionary who gave a description of the grand cataract and a plate of it, as it appeared in the year 1678. It is not wonderful that coming suddenly upon the Falls which no European traveller had ever seen before, he should have believed them to be twice their real height. "Betwixt the lakes Ontario and Erie,” he says, "there is a vast and prodigious cadence of water, which falls after an astonishing manner, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel. As to the waters of Italy and Swedeland, they are but sorry patterns of it, and this wonderful downfall is compounded of two great falls, with an isle in the middle, and there is another cascade less than the other two which falls from west to east. I wished a hundred times that somebody had been with us, who could have described the wonders of this frightful fall. In the mean time, accept the following draught such as it is."-From his plate it appears that this third cascade was produced by what he terms "the elbow" caused by the projection of the table rock, which must then have been more prominent than now.

Seventy-three years afterwards, or in 1751, a letter was published in the Gentleman's Magazine for that year by Kalm, the Swedish botanist, on the Falls of Niagara. His description is also illustrated by a plate, in which the proportional height and breadth of the Falls are given more correctly. The lesser Fall on the left bank of the river is omitted; but at the place where it had been represented in Father Hennepin's sketch, Kalm inserts the letter "a," referring to a note in which he says, "Here the water was formerly forced out of its direct course by a projecting rock, which when standing turned the water off obliquely across the other Fall."

This observation confirms the reality of Hennepin's oblique cascade, and shows that some waste had been going on in the intermediate seventy-three years, making a visible alteration in the scene, and leading us to infer that the rocks have been suffering continual dilapidation for more than the last century and a half.

In the absence of more ample historical data, we are fortunately not without geological evidence of the former existence of a channel of the Niagara at a much higher level, before the table-land was intersected by the great ravine. Long before my visit to the Niagara, I had been informed of the existence on Goat Island of beds of gravel and sand containing fluviatile shells, and some account had been given of these by Mr. Hall in his first report in 1839; I therefore proposed to him that we should examine these carefully, and see if we could trace any remnants of the same along the edges of the river-cliffs below the Falls. We began by collecting in Goat Island shells of the genera Unio, Cyclas, Melania, Valvata, Limnea, Planorbis, and