PREFACE.

Yet

THIS book is a record of a pleasure trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is, to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who travelled in those countries before him. I make small pretence of showing any one how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the seaother books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.

I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me-for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.

In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.

THE AUTHOR.

SAN FRANCISCO.

CONTENTS

OF VOLUME I.

CHAPTER I.

Popular Talk of the Excursion-Programme of the Trip-Duly Ticketed
for the Excursion-Defection of the Celebrities

CHAPTER II.

Grand Preparations-An Imposing Dignitary-The European Exodus
-Mr. Blucher's Opinion-State-room No. 10-The Assembling of
the Clans-At Sea at last.

CHAPTER III.

"Averaging" the Passengers-"Far, far at Sea"-Tribulation among
the Patriarchs-Seeking Amusement under Difficulties-Five Cap-
tains in the Ship

CHAPTER IV.

The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated-Pilgrim Life at Sea-" Horse
Billiards"-The "Synagogue"-The Writing School-Jack's
"Journal"-The "Q. C. Club"-The Magic Lantern-State Ball
on Deck-Mock Trials-Charades-Pilgrim Solemnity - Slow Music
-The Executive Officer Delivers an Opinion.

CHAPTER V.

Summer in Mid-Atlantic-An Eccentric Moon-Mr. Blucher Loses Con-
fidence-The Mystery of "Ship Time "-The Denizens of the Deep
-"Land Ho!"-The First Landing on a Foreign Shore-Sensation
among the Natives-Something about the Azores Islands-Blucher's
Disastrous Dinner-The Happy Result

CHAPTER VI.

Solid Information - A Fossil Community-Curious Ways and Customs
-Jesuit Humbuggery-Fantastic Pilgrimizing-Origin of the Russ
Pavement Squaring Accounts with the Fossils-At Sea Again

CHAPTER VII.

A Tempest at Night-Spain and Africa on Exhibition-Greeting a
Majestic Stranger-The Pillars of Hercules-The Rock of Gibraltar
-Tiresome Repetition-"The Queen's Chair"-Serenity Con-
quered-Curiosities of the Secret Caverns-Personnel of Gibraltar
--Some Odd Characters-A Private Frolic in Africa-Bearding a
Moorish Garrison (without loss of life)-Vanity Rebuked-Disem-
barking in the Empire of Morocco

.

Page

15

21

26

31

40

48

55

12

CHAPTER VIII.

The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco-Strange Sights-A Cradle of
Antiquity-We become Wealthy-How they Rob the Mail in Africa
-The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco

CHAPTER IX.

A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril-How they Mended the Clock-Moorish
Punishments for Crime-Marriage Customs-Looking Several
ways for Sunday-Shrewd Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims-
Reverence for Cats-Bliss of being a Consul-General

CHAPTER X.

Fourth of July at Sea-Mediterranean Sunset-The "Oracle" is De-
livered of an Opinion-Celebration Ceremonies-The Captain's
Speech-France in Sight-The Ignorant Native-In Marseilles-
Another Blunder-Lost in the Great City-Found Again-A Frenchy
Scene

CHAPTER XI.

Getting "Used to it"-No Soap-Bill of Fare, Table d'hôte-" An
American Sir!"-A Curious Discovery-The "Pilgrim" Bird-
Strange Companionship -A Grave of the Living-A Long Captivity
-Some of Dumas' Heroes-Dungeon of the Famous "Iron Mask'

CHAPTER XII.

A Holiday Flight through France-Summer Garb of the Landscape-
Abroad on the Great Plains-Peculiarities of French Cars-French
Politeness-American Railway Officials-"Twenty Minutes to
Dinner!"-Why there are no Accidents-The "Old Travellers"
-Still on the Wing-Paris at Last-French Order and Quiet-
Place of the Bastille-Seeing the Sights-A Barbarous Atrocity-
Absurd Billiards

CHAPTER XIII.

More Trouble-Monsieur Billfinger-Re-Christening the Frenchman-
In the Clutches of a Paris Guide-The International Exposition-
Fine Military Review-Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the
Sultan of Turkey

CHAPTER XIV.

The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame-Jean Sanspeu's Addition-
Treasures and Sacred Relics-The Legend of the Cross-The
Morgue-The Outrageous Can-Can-Blondin Aflame-The Louvre
Palace The Great Park-Showy Pageantry-Preservation of
Noted Things.

CHAPTER XV.

French National Burying Ground-Among the Great Dead-The Shrine
of Disappointed Love-The Story of Abelard and Heloise-"Eng-
lish Spoken Here"-" American Drinks Compounded Here".
Imperial Honours to an American-The Over-estimated Grisette-
Departure from Paris-A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Come-
liness of American Women

CHAPTER XVI.

Versailles-Paradise Regained-A Wonderful Park-Paradise Lost-
Napoleonic Strategy

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70

77

84

93

99

112

121

130

143

CHAPTER XVII

War-The American Forces Victorious-"Home Again"-Italy in
Sight-The "City of Palaces"-Beauty of the Genoese Women-
The "Stub-Hunters"-Among the Palaces-Gifted Guide-Church
Magnificence-"Women not Admitted"-How the Genoese Live
-Massive Architecture-A Scrap of Ancient History-Graves
for 60,000.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Flying Through Italy-Marengo-First Glimpse of the Famous Cathe-
dral-Description of some of its Wonders -A Horror Carved in
Stone-An Unpleasant Adventure-A Good Man-A Sermon from
the Tomb-Tons of Gold and Silver-Some more Holy Relics-
Solomon's Temple Rivalled

CHAPTER XIX.

"Do You Wis zo Haut can be?"-La Scala-Petrarch and Laura-
Lucrezia Borgia-Ingenious Frescoes-Ancient Roman Amphi-
theatre-A Clever Delusion-Distressing Billiards-The Chief
Charm of European Life-An Italian Bath-Wanted: Soap
Crippled French-Mutilated English-The Most Celebrated Paint-
ing in the World - Amateur Raptures-Uninspired Critics→
Anecdote A Wonderful Echo-A Kiss for a Franc

CHAPTER XX.

Rural Italy by Rail-Fumigated, According to Law-The Sorrowing
Englishman-Night by the Lake of Como-The Famous Lake-
Its Scenery-Como compared with Tahoe-Meeting a Shipmate
CHAPTER XXI.

The Pretty Lago di Lecco-A Carriage Drive in the Country-Astonish-
ing Sociability in a Coachman-A Sleepy Land-Bloody Shrines-
The Heart and Home of Priestcraft-A Thrilling Medieval Ro-
mance-The Birthplace of Harlequin-Approaching Venice.

CHAPTER XXII.

Night in Venice-The "Gay Gondolier"-The Grand Fête by Moon-
light-The Notable Sights of Venice-The Mother of Republics
Desolate

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Famous Gondola-The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect-The
Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion-Snobs, at Home
and Abroad-Sepulchres of the Great Dead-A Tilt at the "Old
Masters"-A Contraband Guide-The Conspiracy-Moving Again

CHAPTER XXIV.

Down Through Italy by Rail-Idling in Florence-Dante and Galileo
-An Ungrateful City-Dazzling Generosity-Wonderful Mosaics
-The Historical Arno-Lost Again-Found Again, but no Fatted
Calf Ready-The Leaning Tower of Pisa-The Ancient Duomo-
The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung-An Enchant-
ing Echo-A New Holy Sepulchre-A Relic of Antiquity-A Fallen
Republic At Leghorn-At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board
the Ship Our Vessels an Object of Grave Suspicion-Gen. Gari-
baldi Visited-Threats of Quarantine

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