CONTENTS.

THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY.

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LETTER I.

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Quiet and

Passage to Ostend. — The Capuchin church. Ghent.

Content, the presiding deities of Flanders. Antwerp. The Place de

Meir.- Silence and solitude of the town, contrasted with the tumult

and uproar of London.

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LETTER II.

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Page 1

- Monsieur Van Len-

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Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.
cren's collection. - The Canon Knyff's house and gallery of paint-
ings. The Canon himself. - His domestic felicity.. Revisit the
cathedral. - Grand service in honour of St. John the Baptist.
Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist's, astonishing flashes of execu-
tion. Evening service in the cathedral. Magical effect of the
music of Jomelli.-Blighted avenues. —— Slow travelling. - Enter the
United Provinces.-Level scenery.—Chinese prospects.-Reach Meer-
dyke.-Arrival at the Hague.

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The Prince of Orange's cabinet of paintings. - Temptation of St.

Anthony, by Breughel. Exquisite pictures by Berghem and Wouver-

mans. Mean garrets stored with inestimable productions of the Indies.

-Enamelled flasks of oriental essences. -Vision of the wardrobe of

Hecuba. Disenchantment. Cabinet of natural history. A day

dream. A delicious morsel. Dinner at Sir Joseph Yorke's. -Two

honourable boobies. The Great Wood.- - Parterres of the Greffier

Fagel.-Air poisoned by the sluggish canals. -Fishy locality of Dutch

banquetting rooms. -Derivation of the inhabitants of Holland.—Origin

and use of enormous galligaskins. Escape from damp alleys and lazy

Leave the Hague. Leyden. - Wood near Haerlem. - Waddling

fishermen. Enter the town.-The great fair.-Riot and uproar.-Con-

fusion of tongues.-Mine hostess.

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LETTER V.

Amsterdam. The road to Utrecht.-Country-houses and gardens.-

Neat inclosures.- Comfortable parties. - Ladies and Lapdogs.-Arri-

val at Utrecht. Moravian establishment. The woods.-Shops.

Celestial love.-Musical Sempstresses.-Return to Utrecht.

LETTER VI.

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Melan-

Nocturnal depredators.

Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle. - Glimpse of a dingy grove..

choly saunterers. Dusseldorf Gallery.

Arrival at Cologne. - Shrine of the Three Wise Sovereigns. - Peregri-

nations of their beatified bones. - Road to Bonn. - Delights of Catho-

licism.—Azure mountains.—Visionary Palaces.

LETTER VII.

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Borders of the Rhine. - Richly picturesque road from Bonn to An-

dernach.-Scheme for a floating village.-Coblentz.-A winding valley.

-The river Lahn. - Ems. The planet. A supposed Apparition.-

A little sequestered Paradise.

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LETTER VIII.

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Inveterate Idlers.-The planet Orloff and his satellites. A Storm.-

Scared women.-A dreary Forest.-Village of Wiesbaden.-Manheim.

-Ulm.-The Danube-unlimited plains on its margin.-Augsburg.–

Sketch of the Town.- Pomposities of the Town-House.

LETTER IX.

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Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria. Grand Fair at Munich. -The

Elector's country palace. - Court Ladies. - Fountains.-Costume.

Garden and tea-room.. Hoydening festivities there. The Palace and

Chapel. Gorgeous riches of the latter. St. Peter's thumb. - The

Elector's collection of pictures.-The Churches. — Hubbub and con-

fusion of the Fair. -Wild tract of country. -Village of Wolfraths-

hausen.-Perpetual forests.-A tempest.-A night at a cottage. 30

shippers.

LETTER X.

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Mittenwald.-Mountain chapels.-Saint Anna's young and fair wor-

Road to Inspruck. - Maximilian's tomb.-Vast range of

prospects. A mountain torrent.-Schönberg.

Steinach

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LETTER XI.

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its torrent and gloomy strait.-Achievements of Industry.

-A sleepy Region. Beautiful country round Brixen.

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ITALY.

LETTER I.

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Ap-

Bolsana. Indications of approaching Italy. - Fire-flies.

pearance of the Peasantry. A forest Lake. Arrive at Borgo di Vol-

sugano. Prospect of hills in the Venetian state.-Gorgeous flies.-

Fortress of Covalo.-Leave the country of crags and precipices and enter

the territory of the Bassanese. Groves of olives and vines. - Classic

appearance of Bassano.- Happy groups. - Pacchierotti, the celebrated

singer.-Anecdote of him.

LETTER II.

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Villa of Mosolente. The route to Venice.-First view of that city.

-Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco. - Morning scene on the

grand canal.-Church of Santa Maria della Salute.-'Interesting group

of stately buildings.- Convent of St. Giorgio Maggiore. -The Reden-

tore.-Island of the Carthusians.

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LETTER III.

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Giants'

Church of St. Mark. The Piazza. — Magnificent festivals formerly

celebrated there.—Stately architecture of Sansovino. -The Campanile.

- The Loggetta. - The Ducal Palace. Colossal Statues. -

Stairs.-Fit of enthusiasm.-Evening-scene in the great Square.-Ve-

netian intrigue.—Confusion of languages.—Madame de Rosenberg.—

Character of the Venetians.

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LETTER IV.

Excessive heat.-The Devil and Senegal.-A dreary shore.-Scene of the

Doge's nuptials with the sea.-Return to the Place of St. Mark.-Swarm

of Lawyers.-Receptacles for anonymous accusations.-The Council of

Ten.-Terrible punishments of its victims.-Statue of Neptune.-Fatal

waters. Bridge of Sighs.-The Fondamenti Nuovi.-Conservatory of

the Mendicanti.-An Oratorio.-Profound attention of the audience. 58

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LETTER V.

M. de Viloison and his attendant Laplander. Drawings of ancient

Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.- Titian's master-

piece in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo. —The distant Euganean

hills.

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LETTER VI.

Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.- The once populous city of

An excursion.-Effects of our music on the inhabitants of the

Altina.

Islands.

Solitary fields infested by serpents.. Remains of ancient

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sculpture. Antique and fantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Tor-

cello. San Lorenzo's chair. - Dine in a Convent.

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The Nuns.

Oratorio of Sisera.-Remarks on the music.-Singing of the Marchetti.

-A female orchestra.

LETTER VII.

Coast of Fusina. The Brenta. -

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A village of Palaces.-Fiesso.-

Exquisite singing of the Galuzzi. - Marietta Cornaro. Scenes of

chantment and fascination.

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LETTER VIII.

Reveries.-Walls of Padua. Confused Pile dedicated to St. An-

thony.-Devotion at his Shrine. — Penitential Worshippers.—Magnifi-

cent Altar. - Sculpture of Sansovino. Colossal chamber like Noah's

Ark.

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LETTER IX.

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Church of St. Justina. -Tombs of remote antiquity. - Ridiculous

attitudes of rheumatic devotees. -Turini's music.-Another excursion

to Fiesso. Journey to the Euganean hills. Newly discovered ruins.

-High Mass in the great Church of St. Anthony.-A thunder-storm.

-Palladio's Theatre at Vicenza. -Verona. - An aërial chamber.

Striking prospect from it. The amphitheatre. - Its interior. Leave

Verona. -Country between that town and Mantua. German soldiers.

-Remains of the palace of the Gonzagas. Paintings of Julio Roma-

no.-A ruined garden.-Subterranean apartments.

LETTER X.

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Cross the Po.-A woody country.-The Vintage.-Reggio.-Ridge

of the Appennines.-Romantic ideas connected with those mountains.-

Arrive at Modena. - Road to Bologna. Magnificent convent of Ma-

donna del Monte. - Natural and political commotions in Bologna.

Proceed towards the mountains.-Dreary prospects.-The scenery im-

proves. Herds of goats. A run with them.- Return to the carriage.

-Wretched hamlet.-Miserable repast.

LETTER XI.

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A sterile region. Our descent into a milder landscape. - Distant

view of Florence. - Moonlight effect. Visit the Gallery. Relics of

ancient credulity.- Paintings.. A Medusa's head by Leonardo da

Vinci. Curious picture by Polemberg.-The Venus de Medicis.-Ex-

quisitely sculptured figure of Morpheus.-Vast Cathedral.-Garden of

Boboli.. Views from different parts of it—its resemblance to an

antique Roman garden.

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83.

LETTER XII.

Rambles among the hills.-Excursions with Pacchierotti-he catches

cold in the mountains. The whole Republic is in commotion, and

send a deputation to remonstrate with the Singer on his imprudence.-

The Conte Nobili.-Hill scenery.-Princely Castle and Gardens of the

Garzoni Family.-Colossal Statue of Fame.-Grove of Ilex.-Endless

bowers of Vines.-Delightful Wood of the Marchese Mansi. - Return

to Lucca.

LETTER XIII.

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Set out for Pisa.-The Duomo.-Interior of the Cathedral.-The

Campo Santo. Solitude of the streets at mid-day.

horn.-Beauty of the road.-Tower of the Fanale.

Proceed to Leg-

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LETTER XIV.

The Mole at Leghorn. Coast scattered over with Watch-towers.---

Branches of rare coral unexpectedly acquired.

LETTER XV.

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Florence again.-Palazzo Vecchio.-View on the Arno.-Sculptures

by Cellini and John of Bologna.-Contempt shown by the Austrians to

the memory of the House of Medici. Evening visit to the Garden of

Boboli.-The Opera.-Miserable Singing.-A Neapolitan Duchess. 98

LETTER XVI.

Detained at Florence by reports of the malaria at Rome. - Ascend

one of the hills celebrated by Dante.-View from its brow. - Chapel

designed by Michael Angelo.-Birth of a Princess.-The christening.

Another evening visit to the woods of Boboli.

LETTER XVII.

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Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.-Rocky Steeps.-Groves of Pine.-Vast

Ampitheatre of Lawns and Meadows. Reception at the Convent.--

Wild Glens where the Hermit Gualbertus had his Cell. - Conversation

with the holy Fathers.-Legendary Tales.-The consecrated Cleft.-

The Romitorio. -Extensive view of the Val d'Arno.-Return to Flo-

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rence.

LETTER XVIII.

Cathedral at Sienna.-A vaulted chamber.-Leave Sienna.-Moun-

tains round Radicofani.—Hunting palace of the Grand Dukes.—A

grim fraternity of cats.-Dreary apartment.

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