being quite offended at one of his notions being rejected. Exclusive of this, the journey was amusing and agreeable; and to me who was studying the character of American citizens, particularly useful. On another occasion, I had as fellow passenger a gentleman who had travelled extensively in the south of Europe. His comparisons of the United States with Spain and Italy were valuable to me. He had never been in England; but I told him that I had; so we had a good opportunity for forming right estimates of national advantages. Several hours after, another passenger began to guess what State I was from. He fixed on New York; but when after a little concealment, I told him what countryman I was, he was greatly surprised; a circumstance pleasing to me, since it showed that I had learnt enough of the manners and sentiments of the country to talk freely of it in the assumed character of a native without betraying my secret; an attainment more difficult than some who have never been from home would suppose.

In voyaging from Norfolk to Richmond by the steam-packet, I made acquaintance with the Spanish consul whom I found an intelligent, educated man. From his long residence in the

United States, I attached importance to his remarks. This voyage was one of the most interesting I made. The number of passengers might be about sixty, about one third of whom were foreigners, there being persons from eight different countries. I found out and made this circumstance known, when it excited a lively interest. To learn the opinions of persons from so many different countries, of that in which they were, was both entertaining and instructive. I think it right to add that all spoke more favourably than otherwise. I was conversing with some Germans when a Dane who spoke their language with tolerable fluency joined us. We became quite in high glee; but whatever laughs were made at American peculiarities, there was no other than a cordial feeling to the citizens in general.

I have now perhaps written more than enough to show what the traveller in America may expect to meet; yet I think it right to add that in many places, I found tavern-keepers who showed me a kindness beyond that required by their calling. This probably arose from the familiarity I constantly adopted. Though in England I had not been in the habit of conversing with persons in their station in a similar

manner, I considered that it was best in America not only to conform to established customs, but to avail myself of every chance of learning something new and confirming or correcting what I had learnt. The plan I found had its advantages. The hostess of the house at which I stopped at Buffalo on Lake Erie, gave me an interesting account of the skirmishes in Canada during the late war. Not only was her conversation pleasing, but her manners were soft and considerably refined. A widow at a solitary house distant about seven miles from Buffalo communicated some particulars of the Indians in the vicinity. She was an animated woman; and though removed from society by her remote situation, one who knew how to demean herself with great propriety. She begged that if I should ever go that road again I would give them a call. This was not spoken in reference to her wishing my custom, but to show her friendly feeling to a foreigner. I was sensible of it by her tone and manner. The landlord of an inn in Connecticut answered my enquiries respecting the Shakers, who have a settlement near his house; and seemed both capable and ready to give me information of every sort respecting the vicinity. One of his daughters was beautiful and fascinating, I held a long conver

sation with her, and found her quite intelligent. The morning I spent at this house is one to which I recur with pleasure. At the inn at Harper's Ferry in Virginia, I met a gentleman and his wife from Tennessee; they, the mistress of the house and her daughter, with myself, passed a sociable evening together conversing principally on literary topics. The master who had been from home, returned on the following morning. He was a Protestant, his wife and daughter Catholics. All of them behaved in an agreeable manner; and made me feel as if I were at home. His bookcase contained some valuable historical works of which while I staid Books are so scarce in most

I made good use.

country places in America, that when I happened of a few, I found myself as refreshed as after bathing in cold water in a hot day.

CHAPTER IV.

THE MEN.

In the remarks I am about to make on the men, I shall confine myself principally to their habits and behaviour, reserving some remarks on their character to a future chapter.

One of the first things that strikes the attention of a stranger in America, is the coldness and apparent heartlessness with which they greet an acquaintance. Their deportment is quite chill

ing. Yet it is soon perceptible that this arises not so much from apathy as from habit. It is however proper to observe that the Virginians are to be exempted from this particular, since they are not at all backward to manifest their feelings. Of the men in general it is notwithstanding to be said, that they never show that boisterousness of manner so common with the Irish. In their houses, they lounge when seated, in a way which in some other countries, would be viewed as quite indecorous. It is quite common even in company to lean back in the chair so as to let it stand on its hind legs;