agreeably diversified. On this river, named Macquarie, the seat of a new settlement was chosen by the Governor, who visited it in May, 1815; a road passable for carriages having in the mean time been constructed to the extent of 148 measured miles from Sydney, the colonial metropolis; but in a direct line (nearly W.N.W.), only 83 geographical miles. From this spot, which was named Bathurst, Mr. Evans was then despatched to make farther discoveries southwestward; and having fallen in with another considerable stream, which he denomi nated the Lachlan, and supposed likely to form a junction with the river Macquarie,* the Surveyor General, Lieutenant John Oxley, of the Royal Navy, was ordered March 24, 1817, to examine the direction and extent of its course. A depôt, comprising every necessary article for the expedition, had then been formed on the Lachlan, in 33° 44' south longitude, and 148° 21' longitude, east of Greenwich. Mr. Oxley arrived at this spot April 25, and proceeded from it westward the 28th, at the approach of winter in that climate. He was attended by Mr. Evans, two botanists, a mineralogist, a boat builder, and six other men, whose offices were distinguished in the instructions that were delivered to him. One of these is represented to be "for chaining with surveyors; "a phrase, which seems to import, in the dialect of Port Jackson, the measuring of land; even in cases for which a chain would ill suffice. He was expected at that time to cross the continent to the south western coast, at a distance of 600 miles from Bathurst. We cannot comprehend that a survey of that nature and extent could be performed, but by trigonometrical operations.

It was "expected that the Lachlan river 'would be found to empty itself into that part of the sea on the south-west coast of Australia, between Spencer's Gulf and Cape Otway," (ibid.): and this expectation probably occasioned the Lachlan to be preferred to the Macquarie, as the immediate object of attention. It has already, however, been remarked, that for nearly one half this distance "the coast is sandy and destitute of water." It seems, therefore, to be only eastward of Cape Bernouilli that the river could be expected to issue. An accurate survey of the intervening coast to Cape Otway (not more than 70 or 80 leagues) would therefore decide this question. The very outset of the first expedition was discouraging. The depôt on the Lachlan, though but 1° 8 west, and 15 south of Bathurst, was found, by barometrical computation, to be 1370 feet lower

The Governor's account of this expedition, dated July 8, 1815, should have been inserted in Mr. Oxley's appendix, to connect the other documents which it comprises, and to introduce the present journals. It is added to a judicious compilation of the History of New South Wales, published by Hatchard, 1818. 8vo.

than that station; and only 600 feet above the level of the sea, (p. 9.) Yet the " dividing range between the Lachlan and Macquarie rivers are very lofty," (p. 4.) so that the " hope that these rivers uniting," expressed in the instructions, was at once cut off. The land about the depôt was quite flat, (p. 7.) And as they proceeded, northward of west, down the right bank of the river, the country became a "dead level, with extensive swamps, on both sides, very barren and desolate," (p. 15, 16.) At the same time, " marks of flood were observed, 36 feet above the level of the stream." A few. insulated eminences adjacent to it, and some ranges occasionally observed at considerable distances, alone diversified the scene: but westward, the horizon was unbounded. It is remarked, 6th May, "the soil of the country we passed over, was a poor and cold clay; but there are many rich levels, which, could they be drained and defended from the inundations of the river, would amply repay the cultivation," (p. 23.) On this alternative the utility of most parts of the continent seems to depend. Had it possessed attractions for its early discoverers, the Dutch, they would probably by this time have intersected no small portion of it with canals, and have guarded it with suitable embankments. We rather wish, than hope, that they may yet follow our example, by sending their malefactors to its western coasts. Our French neighbours have speculated on occupying some parts of the south-west coast which they explored; but their approximation to our settlements is by no means desirable. Their restless ambition, as in India and North America, would perpetually grasp at the whole, till they should be completely excluded; and the prize would ill pay for the contest.

The river Lachlan, which at the depôt had a breadth of 40 yards, had in 33° 16 S. lat. not more than 30: and after rising and falling very suddenly, without rain, it began, 11th May, "to wash the immediate edge of the plain, and so continued to do." (p. 28.) It also divided itself into three branches; one of which running N.W. was crossed, and the middle branch pursued, which soon overflowed its banks, and its course was lost among marshes, (p. 34.) From a neighbouring hill was perceived, to a distance of 25 or 30 miles, that the whole country from N.W. round to N. lay under water. Returning to the point where the river first divided, the party pursued the course of its south western branch, which soon changed to the direction of the others; probably therefore with a similar termination. They were then 53 miles west, and 28 north of the depôt; and the course of the river had been so circuitous as to extend at least twice that length. Its fall, by the latest obser vations, was estimated at 100 feet, leaving not more than 500

above the level of the sea. Most unfortunately, their barometer, having been included in the load of a pack-horse, was broken by his falling in a swamp. On a survey of this kind, the comparative elevations of the land could be hardly less important than the distances.

The party had been furnished with rations of provisions for five months; which, with the rest of the baggage, had been divided between land and water carriage; but the horses appear to have been left wholly to find their provender from the soil, whatever it might happen to be. The difficulty of their passage over swamps and creeks, and their wanderings in search for grass, as well as obstructions to the progress of the boat, especially from fallen trees in the river, had already much retarded the expedition. Its advancement in the same direction was impracticable; and Mr. Oxley, being without instructions for an alternative, resolved on so hazardous an enterprize as that of quitting the river, to proceed across the country south-westward, toward the coast between Capes Otway and Bernouilli; expecting in that direction to meet with some river that might issue from the marshes in which the Lachlan appeared to be dispersed. He thought it, notwithstanding, "probable, from the appearance of the country, and its being nearly on a level with the sea, that the waters were partly absorbed by the soil, and the remainder lost by evaporation." (p. 38.) The attempt to cross such a desart, rather than leave his charge imperfectly executed, demonstrates a laudable zeal for the public service: but we confess that the prospect of success seems to us to have been so small, as hardly to warrant the undertaking. Whatever shift the party might make for water, in quitting the only stream that they had seen in their journey, the horses, on whose strength they must be wholly dependent, were obviously liable, when much more heavily laden, to be deprived both of water and grass.

They commenced, however, their adventurous journey, 18th of May, and amidst great difficulties and hardships, advanced, 2d of June, to lat. 34° 8' south, long. 146° 3' east. Their horses had continually broken from their nightly confinement, to wander many miles after water, and most of the day was often consumed in quest of them. One of the best horses was then shot, having lost the use of his limbs; and the rest were daily sinking under want and fatigue. On the fifth, in 34° 13′ south, 146° east, it was found impracticable to proceed; and it was decided to return north-westward, as nearly as the means of subsistence for the perishing horses admitted of keeping that course. They travelled therefore along the foot of a barren range of hills, tending little westward of north. On the six

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teenth, when in 33° 49' south, 145° 54′ east, another horse expired. At length, by leaving half their provisions at times behind, they arrived on the 23d at a river, which they supposed to be a continuation of the Lachlan, though reduced to one third of its former breadth. Following its course, first westward, and then south-west, they found its current terminate in a lagoon, 33° 57' south, 144° 23′ east, without any visible eminence south-westward. A few miles above this extremity, however, a large arm of the river extended from the north bank to a considerable distance on that side," (p. 102.) This is represented in the map as issuing into an extensive lake; and" a sheet of water on the north side near the termination of the stream," is incidentally mentioned, (p. 120,) and in the author's report to General Macquarie, (p. 372.) We cannot, therefore, account for his silence concerning it when on the spot; especially as it is thereby left doubtful, whether this arm from the northern bank, is not rather the main stream of the river. Its sudden stagnation in the channel that was examined, seems to indicate as much, and to render a fuller explanation the more desirable. The remarkable diminution of the river, also, where it was first recognized, may admit of a similar illustration. To return thither, the party set out on the 9th of July, and reached the spot on the 19th, still uncertain whether the stream was connected with the Lachlan, or with the river Macquarie. Continuing to ascend its left bank, they passed three extensive lakes, at a few miles distance from it. Near the first of these, an arm nearly as large as the main branch up which they had travelled, was discovered on the north side; it ran N. Ñ. W. and then apparently trended more westerly," (p. 124.) Such drains, and divisions of its channels, sufficiently account for its diminution.

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All expedients for crossing to its right bank failed, till Au gust 3d, when they were 44' 10" west, and 11' 32" north of the point where they had quitted the Lachlan; and they could no longer doubt that the present stream proceeded from the marshes which had there arrested their progress. Of the interval, about fifty miles in length, from sixteen to nineteen miles were examined, comprising an island formed by divisions of the river. The party were very eager to quit so unpromising an object; and as soon as they could transport their horses in a raft to the northern bank, they left it; being resolved again to encounter whatever wants and dangers might occur, rather than persist in contending with the impediments to their return up the banks of the river. "A variety of wretchedness," says the author, (p. 113,) "is at all times preferable to one unvarying cause of pain or distress."

Before taking leave of the Lachlan, we would, however, pause, to suggest a few considerations. With an exception of the interval above mentioned, it has been traced through four degrees of longitude, or above 230 miles of direct distance, and more than double that course. Its sources have not been explored, nor do we think its termination as yet decided. Supposing its fall, in the extent that it has been examined, to be proportionate to its computed descent from the depôt to the marshes, the lake into which one, if not both of its branches issued, would not be more than 250 feet above the sea; but the fall more probably decreases, and the elevation may be about 300 feet. The lake is nearly in the latitude of Port Jackson, and almost half way thence towards Spencer's Gulf. Should one or more streams be supplied by it, which seems most likely, they may flow toward the low sandy coast between that inlet and Cape Bernouilli, and may either be absorbed by it, or may reach by diminished currents the ocean. The sudden and great rises and falls of the river, and the extent and irregularity of its inundations, render it at present useless, and even noxious to the country through which it passes; but we do not see reason to conclude, that it is incapable of serving for extensive inland navigation, or for the regular navigation of the adjacent plains, when the state of the population may require it. Its descent is so slight and so regular, that not a single portage apparently would be required for 500, or perhaps double that number of miles. On this river, such as it is, seems to depend all internal communication between the eastern and southern coasts. The country between them, at least in its present state, appears to be utterly impassable. Of inhabitants, though seldom seen, recent traces very frequently occurred; and several of their sepulchres, much resembling British barrows, were found near the river; one almost at its supposed extremity. They are entirely nomadic, and seem to derive much of their subsistence from large muscles that adhere to rushes in the lagoons. They never demonstrated hostility; and at the temporary depôt, formed only for the equipment of the expedition, they had already become familiar. In person, they were thought superior to the inhabitants of the coast; and in language, wholly to differ from them. Few discoveries in natural history were made. Kangaroos and Emus abounded in the best parts of the country; in the rest, only rats and dogs were found. The river, when not flooded, supplied abundance of large fish. Little valuable timber was discovered; but brushwood, nearly impassable, was frequent.

The party pursuing, for 100 miles, a north-eastern course, after passing some moderate hills, traversed much low ground,