life. But whatever may be the cause, I feel the strongest objection to becoming a resident in the remote part of a country which is still shaken by the convulsions of an anarchical spirit; where for a series of ages, the olive of peace has not been suffered to shoot forth one sweet blossom of national concord, which the sword of civil dissention has not cropt almost in the germ; and the natural character of whose factious sons, as we are still taught to believe, is turbulent, faithless, intemperate and cruel; formerly destitute of arts, letters, or civilization, and still but slowly submitting to their salutary and ennobling influence. To confess the truth, I had so far suffered prejudice to get the start of unbiassed liberality, that I had almost assigned to these rude people scenes appropriately barbarous; and never was more pleasantly astoished than when the morning's dawn gave to my view one of the most splendid spectacles in the scene of picturesque creation I had ever beheld, or indeed ever conceived the bay of Dublin. A foreigner on board the packet compared the view to that which the bay of Naples affords: I cannot judge of the justness of the comparison, though I am told the comparison is very general and common-place; but if the scenic beauties of the Irish bay are exceeded by those of the Neapolitan, my fan The falls short in a just conception of its charms. springing up of a contrary wind kept us for a considcrable time beating about the enchanting coast; the weather suddenly changed, the rain poured in torrents, a storm arose, and the beautiful prospect which had fascinated our gaze, vanished in mists of impenetrable obscurity. As we had the mail on board, a boat was sent out to receive it, the oars of which were plied by six men, whose stature, limbs, and features, declared them the lingering progeny of the once formidable race 0 Irish giants. Bare headed, they "bided the pelting o the pitiless storm," with no other barrier to its fury than what tattered check trowsers, and shirts open at the neck, and tucked above the elbows, afforded; ane which, thus disposed, betrayed the sinewy contexture of forms which might have individually afforded a model to sculpture, for the colossal stature of an Hercules, under all the different aspects of strength and exertion.* 1 A few of the passengers proposing to venture in the boat, I listlesly followed, and found myself seated by one of these sea-monsters, who, in an accent that made me start, addressed me in English, at least as pure and correct as a Thames boatman would use ; and with so much courtesy, cheerfulness, and respect, that I was at a loss how to reconcile such civilization of manner to such ferocity of appearance; while his companions, as they stemmed the mountainous waves, or plied their heavy oars, displayed such a vein of low humour and quaint drollery, and in a language so curiously expressive and original, that no longer able to suppress my surprise, I betrayed it to a gentleman who sat near me, and by whom I was assured that this species of colloquial wit was peculiar to the lower classes of the Irish, who borrowed much of their curious phraseology from the peculiar idiom of their own tongue, and their cheeriness of manner from the native exility of their temperament; " and as for their courteousness," he continued," you will find them, on a further intercourse, civil even to adulation, as long as you treat them with apparent kindness, but an opposite conduct will prove their manner proportionably uncivilized." "It is very excusable," said I," they are of a class in society, to which the modification of the feelings are unknown, and to be sensibly alive to kindness, or to unkindness, is, in my opinion, a noble trait in the national character of an unsophisticated people." While we spoke, we landed, and for the something like pleasurable emotion, which the first on my list of Irish acquaintance produced in my mind, I distri buted among these " sons of the waves more silver than I believe they expected. Had I bestowed a prin*This little marine sketch is by no means a fancy picture; it was actually copied from life, in the summer of 1805. A cipality on an Englishman of the same rank, he would have been less lavish of the eloquence of gratitude on his benefactor, though he might equally have felt the sentiments. So much for my voyage across the Channel. This city is to London like a small temple of the Ionic order, whose proportions are delicate, whose character is elegance, compared to a vast palace whose Corinthian pillars at once denote strength and magnifi cence. The wondrous extent of London excites our amazement; the compact uniformity of Dublin our admiration. But as dispersion is less within the coup d'œil of observance, than aggregation, the small, but harmonious features of Dublin seize at once on the eye, while the scattered but splendid traits of London, excite a less immediate but more progressive admiration, which is often lost in the intervals that occur between those objects which are calculated to excite it. In London, the miserable shop of a gin-seller, and the magnificent palace of a duke, alternately create disgust, or awaken approbation. In Dublin, the buildings are not arranged upon such democratic principles. The plebian hut offers no foil to the patrician edifice, while their splendid and beautiful public structures are so closely connected, as with some degree of policy to strike at once upon the eye in the happiest combination.* In other respects this city appears to me to be the miniature copy of our imperial original, though minutely imitative in show and glare. Something less observant of life's prime luxuries, order and cleanliness, there is a certain class of wretches who haunt the streets of Dublin, so emblematic of vice, povertý, idleness, and filth, that disgust and pity frequently succeed in the minds of the stranger to sentiments of pleasure, surprise, and admiration. For the origin. *Although in one point of view, There may be a policy in this close association of splended objects, yet it is a circumstance of general and just condemon to all strangers who ere not confined to a partial survey the city. of this evil, I must refer you to the supreme police of the city; but whatever may be the cause, the effects (to an Englishman especially) are dreadful and disgusting beyond all expression. Although my father has a large connection here, yet he only gave me a letter to his banker, who has forced me to make his house my home for the few days I shall remain in Dublin, and whose cordiality and kindness sanctions all that has ever been circulated of Irish hospitality. In the present state of my feelings, however, a party on the banks of the Ohio, with a tribe of Indian hunters, would be more consonant to my inclinations than the refined pleasures of the most polished circles in the world. Yet these warm-hearted people, who find in the name of stranger an irresistable lure to every kind attention, will force me to be happy in despite of myself, and overwhelm me with invitations, some of which it is impossible to resist. My prejudices received some mortal strokes, when I perceived that the natives of this barbarous country have got goal for goal with us, in every elegant refinement of life and manners; the only difference I can perceive between a London and a Dublin route is, that here, even amongst the first class, there is a warmth and cordiality of address, which, though perhaps not more sincere than the cold formality of British ceremony, is certainly more fascinating.* It is not, however, in Dublin, I shall expect to find the tone of national character and manner; in the first circles of all great cities (as in courts) the native features of national character arc softened into general uniformity, and the genuine feelings of nature are suppressed or exchanged for a political compliance with the reigning modes and customs, which hold their tenure from the sanction and example of the * "Every unprejudiced traveller who visits them (the Irish) will be as much pleased with their cheerfulness as obliged by their hospitality; and will find them a brave, polite, and liberal people.". -Philosophical Survey through Ireland, by Mr. YOUNG. seat of government. Before I close this, I must make one observation, which I think will speak more than volumes for the refinement of these people. During my short residence here, I have been forced, in the true spirit of Irish dissipation, into three parties of a night; and I have upon these occasions observed, that the most courted objects of popular attention, were those whose talents alone endowed them with distinction. Besides amateurs, I have met with many professional persons, whom I knew in London as public characters, and who are here incorporated in the first and most brilliant circles, appearing to feel no other inequality, than what their own superiority of genius confers. I leave Dublin to-morrow for M-house. It is situated in the county of on the north-west coast of Connaught, which I am told is the classic ground of Ireland. The native Irish, pursued by religious and political bigotry, made it the asylum of their sufferings, and were separated by a provincial barrier from an intercourse with the rest of Ireland, until after the Restoration; so I shall have a fair opportunity of beholding the Irish character in all its primeval ferocity. Direct your next to Bally-, which I find is the nearest post town to my Kamschatkan palace; where, with no other society than that of Blackstone and Co. I shall lead such a life of animal existence, as PRIOR gives to his Contented Couple "They ate and drank, and slept what then! Adieu. H. M.. LETTER II. TO J. D. ESQ. M. P. M- House IN the various modes of penance invented by the various penance mongers of pious austerity, did yc. |